Sunday, April 11, 2010

Unforgettable Delhi


As Delhi prepares to host the Commonwealth Games in six months, we explore some of the city’s most colourful attractions from sari shopping to Bollywood dancing.

Shop for a sari
Shopping for a sari, the traditional garment worn by Indian women, is a truly memorable experience. With hundreds of colourful fabrics (usually cotton or silk) and patterns to choose from, the experience could take up an entire afternoon, so allow plenty of time. Fortunately, shops usually serve tea or soda to refresh you while you make up your mind. Support local villagers and buy khadi (hand-spun cloth). Shops selling unique, handcrafted khadi fabrics, shirts, clothes and products can be found all over Delhi.

A flash in the pan

Boasting 4,500 years of hygiene history, Sulabh International Toilet Museum is one place in Delhi where you won't need to queue for the loo. An extensive collection of privies, chamber pots and water closets in use since AD1145 are on display, including a beautifully decorated Austrian golden toilet and an electric chamber pot for use on chilly nights. Quirky photographs, poems, trivia (apparently King Louis XIII had a commode under his throne) and artefacts provide yet more washroom wisdom.

Website: www.sulabhtoiletmuseum.org

Vegetable seller in Chandni Chowk © Creative Commons / Meanest Indian

Explore ancient alleys
You'll find quirky on every corner of Delhi's oldest street, Chandni Chowk, also Asia's largest wholesale marketplace. The area's centuries-old, narrow, bustling, and bewildering lanes are not for the faint-hearted which is why a rickshaw is the best way to negotiate the hubbub. Those that do venture into this market will enjoy a melting pot of Old Delhi life, with everything from pigeon flyers to the hidden world of eunuchs. Watch calligraphers practise their painstaking yet elegant art; marvel at precious stones in the jewellers' lane, Dariba Kalan, and admire garlands made from gold and currency notes in Kinari Bazaar, the wedding street.

Learn to dance Bollywood-style

Forget Pineapple Dance Studios. Try and follow in the footsteps of a Bollywood movie star under the tuition of Rahul Verma, one of Delhi's leading choreographers, who claims he can teach students basic moves in just two hours. Made up of numerous dance forms from Indian classical to bhangra, hip-hop and jazz, a Bollywood dance lesson will ensure you can strutt your stuff no matter which club you're in. At the very least, you'll be able to impress your friends back home.

Website: www.bollywoodnaach.com

The petal-inspired Lotus Temple © Creative Commons / peking duck

Let your mind unfurl...
Architecture doesn't get more quirky than the Lotus Temple. The expressionist flower design of this Bahá'í temple consists of 27 free-standing marble clad ‘petals' arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides. Bahá'í laws state that the temple must be open to everyone regardless of religion. Visit the exhibition or watch a film in the information centre to learn more about the faith celebrated in this elegant Delhi building, which attracts more visitors than either the Taj Mahal or Eiffel Tower. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1730.

...or your body uncurl
If the cross-legged lotus position is more your thing, where better to reconnect with yourself than in India, the birthplace of yoga? Whether you are interested in Ashtanga, Bikram, Hata or Kundalini, Delhi boasts countless yoga and meditation centres offering in-depth courses and drop-in classes. Ask your hotel or home-stay host to direct you to the nearest centre, then pop into a class or arrange a private session.

India Gate is a popular picnic spot © Creative Commons / Koshyk

Throw together a picnic
India Gate, the country's largest war memorial, is Delhi's top spot for a picnic at the weekend and offers a real carnival atmosphere. Join the throng of locals who congregate with their family and friends on the lawns surrounding Lutyen's masterpiece on balmy, summer evenings, while kids enjoy the children's park. Tuck into tongue-tingling samosas or paranthes (unleavened flat breads) stuffed with vegetables and washed down by cooling cumin-flavoured lassi (yoghurt-based drink). Watch out for the hawkers selling weird and wonderful souvenirs.

Enjoy food for a steal
Restaurants don't come any funkier than Chor Bizarre, which roughly translated means Thieves Market. This Delhi restaurant is decorated with an eclectic mix of wares that, true to the restaurant's name, have been collected with or without the consent of their owners. Part art, part kitsch, they include a four-poster dining table, olde-worlde film star pictures and an antiquated car on which food is served. The music is a mix of Hindi and 1950s western tunes and the food is as bizarre as the décor. Try the traditional Kashmiri Wazwan dishes and the all-you-can-eat buffet, which is good value at 425 INR (£6).

Website: www.chorbizarrerestaurant.com

Saintly music
Saunter down to the Sufi Dargah (mausoleum) of Hazrat Nizamuddin between 1700-1900 and listen to the entrancing sounds of qawaali singing. Thursday evenings at this venerated Sufi shrine are particularly popular, with throngs of people providing a fair-like atmosphere. On special days like the annual holiday Urs each April, people come from all over the world to absorb this rare musical style, believed to be imparted by the saints. Tour operators like TransIndus organise weekly outings in Delhi to the shrine.

Author: Kathryn Liston

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Travel diary 2010


Now that spring has finally sprung we are full of the holiday spirit. Check out our top destinations and events for the year ahead, from an alternative city break in Berne to exploring the Alaskan wildlife.

April

Cornwall © istockphoto

Follow the action: Amsterdam will be gearing up for its annual Queen's Day celebrations with the Orange Festival at the end of the month (30 April). Street parties take over the laid-back streets, parks and squares, with thousands of revellers cavorting in orange wigs, capes, feather boas and body paint.

Take it easy:
Base yourself in a cosy country cottage and explore the landscape and folklore of Cornwall as it blooms into spring. The Lizard Peninsula in the south and the Tintagel caves in the north have ruggedly romantic seascapes, or venture onto the wilds of Bodmin Moor and enjoy a drink at haunted Jamaica Inn.

May

Lemar, Madagascar © istockphoto

Follow the action: Head to Manhattan in spring when there is less heat on the city streets and shorter queues for the main attractions than in the humid and busy summer months. Join the art buffs, students and curious tourists at the Washington Square Outdoor Art Exhibit in West Village (29-31 May).

Take it easy:
Leaves are starting to fall from the trees at the Berenty Reserve in Madagascar, making it easier to spot the bright eyes and bushy tailed lemurs. Treat yourself to a ‘soft' adventure package with plush accommodation, minimal driving and an easy tour pace.

June

Stonehenge, UK © istockphoto

Follow the action: Forget the UK's more corporate summer events - for an authentic festival experience, join the summer equinox celebrations at Stonehenge in Wiltshire (20 - 21 June). Mystical vibes are in the air during the free all-nighter when hundreds gather around the ancient stones to see the sun rise.

Take it easy:
At this time of year the Florida Keys has all the perks of a big summer resort but without the heaving crowds. The waters around Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon and Key West will be warm enough to explore the beautiful living-coral barrier reef.

July

© Festival of Fire

Follow the action: Caribbean and Latin culture make an exotic mix in the city of Santiago de Cuba. Locals love their live music all year round but party fever really takes over during the Festival of Fire (2 - 12 July). Rum flows freely as colourful floats pass by and conga lines wind through the historic streets.

Take it easy:
If you're after an inexpensive beach break close to home, Croatia is just over two hours away from the UK. It's got miles of coastline and islands, and sea and land temperatures reach a glorious 28°C (83°F) at this time of year.

August

Queenstown, New Zealand © istockphoto

Follow the action: If you're after thrills and spills, winter season is well underway in Queenstown on New Zealand's South Island in August. Of course it's famous for bungy jumps and late night fun, but it's the perfect time for skiing or snowboarding on Mount Coronet and The Remarkables if you can't wait for the European winter season.

Take it easy:
For a lazy mid-summer trip take a short ferry ride over to Brittany, northern France. With a similar climate to the UK, now is the time to enjoy its rugged coastline and seafood banquets. Explore the region by hire car and stay in guest houses along the way.

September

© Galway International Oyster Festival

Follow the action: For live wildlife action book a tour to Admiralty Island National Monument in Alaska to see brown bears hunting for wild salmon. If that's not enough action, go native and paddle the canoe route from Angoon village to Mole Harbour.

Take it easy:
Tranquillity can be found on the west coast of Ireland at any time of year, but why not combine your stay with the Galway International Oyster Festival (23-26 September). The slippery delicacy is served with Guinness and champagne at various events, including the Oyster Opening Championship on the opening day and Magnificent Mardi Gras Party.

October

Twelve Apostles, Australia © istockphoto

Follow the action: No where celebrates Halloween like America and liberal San Francisco is the place to go for ghoulish parties and parades. The vibrant neighbourhood of Castro is host to the biggest and gaudiest parade of revellers.

Take it easy:
Australia's wide-screen landscapes make it perfect driving country. Take advantage of the mid-spring climate to cruise along the Great Ocean Road in Victoria. Hair-pin bends wind around awesome cliff-side views, including the sight of the Twelve Apostles - huge eroded limestone rocks jutting up from the sea. Laid-back beach towns and national parks provide plenty of pit-stops.

November

Bern, Switzerland © istockphoto

Follow the action: Swap murky UK skies for crisp Swiss vistas and take a trip to its historical capital Bern. With stately medieval architecture and elegant hotels it has all the ingredients for a civilised city break. But watch out, the annual Onion Festival (22 November) will add a pungent twist to your stay as 700 onion-wielding stalls line the streets.

Take it easy:
With the summer season just starting, Natures Valley on South Africa's east coast can be enjoyed in relative peace. Remote beaches are lapped by the warm Indian Ocean, and indigenous trees tower over lagoons and rivers. Stay close to nature at one of the many comfortable lodges and guest houses in the valley.

December

Karnak Temple, Egypt © Hemera

Follow the action: Feed your festive anticipation by taking a coach or plane to Germany and visiting the Christmas markets. Stock up on traditional crafts and delicacies at the open-air markets of Cologne, Aachen, and Koblenz. Whilst there, take in the wintery splendour of the Rhineland's countryside and dreamy Barvarian castles.

Take it easy:
Egypt's pyramids are a tourist draw throughout the year, but if you want to avoid the stress of heat and crowds go in December. The Nile Valley still enjoys average temperatures of 20°C-26°C (68°F-79°F) so you can pack light, just take some warm tops for the evening.

Author: Louise Jones

Friday, April 2, 2010

Spring beach breaks


If you can't wait until summer to get your sun and sand fix, here are some ideas to help you enjoy the beach without the crowds or the searing heat.

Best for romance: Antigua and Barbuda

Average daily temperature in April: 26°C (78°F).
Why go? Caribbean tourism starts to slow at this time of year so April is perfect for an affordable tropical getaway. The island of Antigua has a beach for every day of the year, so there are plenty to choose from. Jabberwock Beach on the northeastern coast is a swath of white sand with warm waters that are perfect for a relaxing swim. The island of Barbuda is renowned for its wild beauty and deserted beaches - ideal for a romantic escape. Head to Palm Beach and laze on the shimmering spectacle of pink-tinged sand. It's only accessible by boat so pack a picnic and enjoy the solitude with the one you love.
Insider tip: Take an excursion to Great Bird Island from Dickenson Bay. Glass-bottomed boats afford leisurely views of the reef, and a restored pirate ship sails around the island, taking passengers for day or evening trips.

Best for families: North Cyprus

Average daily temperature in April: 23°C (74°F).
Why go? Sunny days dominate the endless stretches of coastline in this Turkish-Cypriot part of the island. Take your pick from secluded spots, sandy beaches and rocky coves, overlooked by the pine-clad Kyrenia Mountains. Head off the beaten track and you'll find Alagadi Turtle Beach, which can be enjoyed in spring before the nesting season - you may even see a turtle or two splashing around. Silver Beach in Famagusta has warm, shallow waters so is very safe for children, and the nearby ancient ruins will keep both the kiddies and adult explorers entertained.
Insider tip: Jump in a hire car with your beach gear and head for the Karpaz Peninsula for your pick of secluded spots for a relaxing family picnic.

Best for diving: Egypt

Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt © thinkstockphotos

Average daily temperature in April: 25°C (77°F).
Why go? The richly coloured coral and marine life of the Red Sea is a magnet to visitors during Egypt's sweltering summer season. Go there before June and you'll have more room to stretch your limbs and snorkel in the calm, clear waters. Sharm el Sheikh has all the facilities of a popular tourist resort with diving schools to get you started and trips for more experienced divers.
Insider tip: If you prefer low-key lounging, head up the coast to the natural beauty of Nuweiba. Find shade under a thick palm grove and cool-off the shallow bay near the ruins of a Turkish fort.

Best for luxury: Dubai

Burj al Arab, Dubai © 123rf.com

Average daily temperature in April: 33°C (91°F).
Why go? April is a great time to head to the desert coast with warm temperatures offset by a cooling breeze. Exclusive resort-style hotels are in abundance, and you can bag luxury for less at this time of year. A long stretch of powdery white sand along Jumeirah Road provides the main beach area. It's divided into sections and owned by private hotels (non-guests can pay to use them), as well as public areas such as Al Mamzar Park. Swimming in this part of the Arabian Sea is a unique experience, with a stunning architectural backdrop of hotels that would make any urban city proud.
Insider tip: Take a break from the beach and stroll through the cooling wind towers, cafés and art galleries of the pretty Bastakiya Quarter.

Best for nature: Bulgaria (Black Sea)

Average daily temperature in April: 23°C (74°F).
Why go? Head to Bulgaria's south eastern coastline and enjoy a comfortable climate and picturesque surrounds. Abundant woodland provides shade and contrast to the swathes of golden sand along the Black Sea coast. St. Konstantin is one of many resorts tucked between the foliage and the sea, with a parkland setting and a local monastery as its namesake. Golden Sands boasts the largest beach, with surrounding parkland sloping down to the sea.
Insider tip: Nearby hot springs and mineral baths will give your skin a complete detox after soaking in the calm seawater.

Best for exclusivity : Taormina, Sicily

Naxos bay from Taormina © thinkstockphoto

Average daily temperature in April: 20°C (68°F).
Why go? Taormina is Sicily's most famous, upmarket and exclusive resort and is starting to warm up nicely in the spring months. The area has several coves and grottoes that can be explored and beach resorts are sheltered between a rocky mountain range and the Ionian Sea - ideal for grabbing a secluded spot. Hop on a cable car to reach the pebble beaches of Isola Bella and Mazzaro. In the summer the beaches are heaving but in April and May visitors can take a more leisurely approach to bagging a sunbed.
Insider tip: Feel like a star for the night and stay at the San Domenico Palace Hotel. Built on the site of a 15th-century monastery, the hotel is one of the finest in Italy, offering opulence and luxury with a superb restaurant, piano bar and heated pool with a wonderful view of Mount Etna and the bay below.

Author: Louise Jones

Monday, March 29, 2010

Festivals 2010


Fancy something different to Reading Festival or Glastonbury? Check out our globe-trotting guide to alternative festivals around the world taking in everything from culture to food.

Cultural Festivals

Join the crowds: Experience the whirlwind of brightly coloured costumes, beating drums, and jeering crowds in Pamplona, Spain, during the Festival of San Fermin from 6-14 July. The most famous attraction of this renowned week-long celebration is encierro, or running of the bulls. Crowds begin amassing at 0630 for this exhilarating spectacle, in which bulls stampede behind hundreds of runners for 825m (2,706ft) to reach a bull ring. Guaranteed to get your adrenalin going.

Escape the crowds: The Tuen Ng Festival (Dragon Boat Festival) in Hong Kong celebrates a popular Chinese hero with a three-day festival of food, entertainment, and colourful boat races starting on 23 July. This exciting sporting competition involves teams of men and women paddling furiously in a flotilla of elaborately-decorated dragon boats across picturesque Victoria Harbour. It's one of the biggest events in the annual calendar and an unforgettable experience.

Food Festivals

Savour fresh lobster at the Maine Lobster Festival © Creative Commons / manray3

Join the crowds: Around 20,000 visitors are lured to the Isle of Wight every summer for an event celebrating one of the island's most pungent vegetables: garlic. Follow your nose and sniff your way to the vast Garlic Marquee where you can sample bizarre concoctions from garlic beer to garlic ice cream. If this sounds too unsavoury, don't worry: the Garlic Festival between 14-15 August embraces all of the island's produce so expect hundreds of stalls overflowing with succulent meats, dairy products, fruits, and juices. Be prepared to loosen your belt for this unbeatable food fest.

Escape the crowds: Enjoy the charm of woodsy Maine in northeast USA during a five-day festival celebrating this state's claim to fame - lobster. At the Maine Lobster Festival between 4-8 August, be amazed as 20,000 pounds of fresh, delicious Maine lobster is cooked to perfection right in front of you. Tuck in as you soak up views of scenic Penobscot Bay. With parades and fun runs, including one race where contestants have to speed across 50 partially submerged lobster crates without falling into the chilly Atlantic - all on the menu, this is a true family-friendly festival.

Film Festivals

Enjoy the beauty of Cannes © Creative Commons

Join the crowds: The Oscars may be over but the red carpet reappears for another dose of A-list glamour at the Cannes Film Festival in France. Starting on 12 May, this is the place to go for high-calibre films, celeb sightings, and all-round glamour. Although access to premieres is strictly limited, try and snap up a ticket for outdoor screenings on the beach at Cinéma de la Plage, or for Director's Fortnight when independent films are available to the paying public. Even if you don't get in, the chance to star-gaze on the Croisette, the coastal road that threads through Cannes, is movie heaven for any ardent film buff.

Escape the crowds: Don't be scared to venture away from the norm this spring. A Night of Horror International Film Festival in Sydney, Australia, is a unique and easily accessible festival promoting the darker imaginations of filmmakers around the world. Best of all, this 10-day gore fest starting on 15 April is set against the backdrop of one of the world's most beautiful cities. The event may lack Hollywood razzamatazz but when you're in such an unbeatable location, who cares?

Flower Festivals

Cherry trees blossom around Washington, DC © Creative Commons / Jeff Kubina

Join the crowds: Discover horticulturist heaven at the Chelsea Flower Show in London starting on 25 May. Admire brilliantly coloured floral arrangements crafted by talented garden designers, and enjoy sweet fragrances drifting through the air as you enjoy a meal or drink at one of the many food venues. For a chance to take home your favourite plant, stick around until 1600 on 29 May when some exhibitors begin to sell off their products. Festival tickets go fast so be sure to buy them in advance.

Escape the crowds: For flowers and fun, wander around a spectacular sea of pale white and pink blossoms in Washington DC during the National Cherry Blossom Festival. Thousands of visitors are expected to descend on the city between 27 March and 11 April, when the cherry trees are expected to bloom, signalling the start of spring. The festival in America's capital is celebrated with fireworks, a lantern lighting ceremony, street festivals, galas and cruises.

Visual Arts Festivals

Fireworks rocket over Edinburgh © Creative Commons / theedinburghblog.co.uk

Join the crowds: Visit Scotland for the 2010 Edinburgh Arts Festival - which is held as part of the summer-long main festival extravaganza - and witness a cultural explosion as talented artists contribute stunning exhibits of modern and contemporary visual art to the city's world-class museums and galleries. Events start on 29 July, and also include everything from children's storytelling tours to cooking lessons, making Edinburgh a perfect getaway with friends or family.

Escape the crowds: Head to the sunny coast of France for the Arles Photography Festival starting on 3 July. The small village, where Vincent Van Gogh once lived, is flooded with lively enthusiasts who appreciate traditional and quality photography. The festival continues until 19 September.



* Take a break in the sun, city or snow, with our Ideas for Easter Holidays.
* Ticked off Paris, Rome & Amsterdam? Check out our Top 5: Alternative short breaks.
* Read our review of the Salthouse Harbour Hotel in Ipswich for a luxury weekend in the UK.

Author: Lisa Relle

Friday, March 26, 2010

Ideas for Easter Holidays


Whether you’re planning a break in the sun, city or snow, check out our cracking range of ideas for Easter Holidays.

Easter breaks: with your other half

Where? Seychelles.
Why? A slice of paradise beckons in this Indian Ocean idyll where average temperatures hover around 29°C (84°F). Lap up the rays and you'll return home with a sun-kissed glow that will last you throughout the summer.
What? The three principle islands of this archipelago are Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, each boasting a wide selection of 5-star beach resorts that will leave you gasping in delight. Clear waters create a picture postcard setting for divers and snorkellers, while land lubbers can enjoy bird watching, dazzling white beaches and tropical forests. Wildlife lovers should visit the Aldabra atoll, a UNESCO World Heritage site, to see giant land tortoises. Around 150,000 of these incredible creatures live here, reputedly five times more than on the Galapagos Islands. If you're feeling romantic, wow your other half with a private yacht trip to a deserted island.

Easter breaks: with your mates

Spring ski in the Alps this Easter © Creative Commons / ForsterFoto

Where? Switzerland.
Why? While snow at most ski resorts in Europe is patchy in April, the high altitude of the Swiss Alps means that snow is rarely in short supply, ensuring that you can still slope off for some late season skiing.
What? Head for the car-free resort of Zermatt, Europe's highest ski resort, overlooked by the mighty Matterhorn. Featuring a mix of chocolate-box chalets and grand hotels, there is a wide range of accommodation to suit every budget. Thanks to the size of the ski area, there is plenty of terrain to suit all skiers, from beginners to experts. When you tire of skiing, go ice skating, ice climbing, tubing or snowshoeing. Alternatively, consider attractive, snowsure Saas Fee or Grindelwald bristling with lively après-ski restaurants, pubs, and cafés. Grindelwald offers special spring skiing and accommodation packages perfect for coordinating your Easter holiday. With a little bit of everything available, Switzerland ensures an ideal experience for you and all of your mates.

Easter breaks: with tots

Head to Athens for family enjoyment © Creative Commons / lightmatter

Where? Athens, Greece.
Why? The exuberant atmosphere of the Greek capital during Easter will suit the endless energy of young kids while giving parents a vibrant and entertaining cultural experience. Another bonus: average daily temperatures in April are a pleasant 20°C (68°F).
What? A series of flamboyant festivities occurs during "Great Week" from Palm Sunday to Easter Monday. In preparation of the traditional Easter roast, markets in Athens come alive, brimming with delicate meat cuts and freshly made cheeses. Visit the historic market of Psiri where free cheese is offered to kids and homemade wine is available for adults. Kids can marvel at dyed Easter eggs, strewn flower petals and candles lit throughout the city. On Easter Eve, at midnight, church bells toll, fireworks erupt and sirens blare - noise and light saturate every corner of the city. On Easter Day, local Athenians venture into the countryside to craft traditional wreaths out of wild flowers. When Easter is over, you still have Athens to explore, a city endowed with rich ancient treasures.

Easter breaks: with teens

Visit El Yunque, Puerto Rico for adventure and scenery © Creative Commons / Luiz A. Muñoz

Where? Puerto Rico, USA.
Why? Puerto Rico is a little island with big appeal. Its tropical Caribbean climate, warm waters and diverse geography will suit families looking for anything from adventure to relaxation.
What? The legacy of Spanish rule has manifested itself in the island's lively music, language, cuisine and architecture. Base yourself in the capital San Juan and visit the old town where an impressive Spanish fortress overlooks sparkling turquoise seas. To really awe your teens, take them to the tropical rainforest of El Yunque, where they can hike endless paths and marvel at exotic plants and birds. Or head for the huge waves at Rincon, on the island's west coast, which attracts talented surfers year-round. If you plan to relax in luxury, stay at the El Conquistador Resort on the northeast coast. This tropical haven offers a myriad of activities. Teens can slip and slide in the expansive seaside water park, putt around a golf course, enjoy treatments designed specifically for teens at the spa, play tennis, basketball or volleyball, scuba-dive and fish.



* Heading to South Africa? Read insider tips in our 2010 World Cup City Guide.
* Check out our Top 5: Mother's Day gifts, from twilight cruises to spa breaks.
* Read our review of the new, stylish Hilton Liverpool, inspired by the city's history.

Author: Lisa Relle

2010 World Cup City Guide: Part 2


In part two of our World Cup City Guide, we explore South Africa’s lesser-known host cities, which despite being off the well-beaten tourist routes, offer a wealth of things to see and do.

Nelspruit

Misconception: A dull agricultural supply centre.

Word on the street: Despite being in a major fruit growing region, Nelspruit is the gateway to fantastic game lodges. It's also close to the land-locked Kingdom of Swaziland and beautiful Mozambique.

Before kick off: 10 on Russell, in the Central Business District, delivers excellent food and service from the oldest building in town. Be sure to try the trout at Chez Vincent on Ferreira Street. The Hillside Tavern Steak House and Pub in the Village Centre is good for rowdier evenings.

The final whistle: Use Nelspruit as a base to go on a safari in Kruger National Park; eat mopane worms at Shangana Cultural Village just outside the town Hazyview, 45km (28 miles) north of Nelspruit; see stalactites and stalagmites in two-million-year-old Sudwala Caves, the world's oldest caves; take in incredible views of the Blyde River Canyon from God's Window viewpoint near Graskop; do a spot of fly-fishing in quaint Dullstroom.

Red card: Consider the region's private game reserves carefully before you part with your cash - you may well have a much better experience at the state-run Kruger National Park.

Insider tip: Soak up wild South Africa from the deck of Makulu Manzi (Big Water) Restaurant overlooking the Crocodile River in the Lowveld National Botanical Garden. The gardens also have a great collection of cycads and baobab trees.

Pretoria

Pretoria's Voortrekker Monument © Creative Commons / Mister-E

Misconception: The home of conservative Afrikanerdom.

Word on the street: Since political change, Pretoria has become a fast-paced, cosmopolitan capital city and is now associated with rock bands like Desmond and the Tutus, Wonderboom, and the maverick, anti-establishment Afrikaner musicians Johannes Kerkorrel and Koos Kombuis.

Before kick off: Hatfield and Brooklyn are the suburbs for eating and drinking - try Tings and Times and News Café. Closer to the stadium, the Eastwood Tavern is great for a pre- or post-match pint. Order excellent grills from family-friendly The Godfather, on the corner of Heuwel and Mike Crawford Streets, or try the ostrich kebabs at the Blue Crane on Melk Street.

The final whistle:
The Herbert Baker-designed seat of government, the Union Buildings, offer a fantastic view of the city. Church Square in the city centre has a monument to Boer leader and one-time president, Paul Kruger, but within spitting distance is the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela was tried for treason. Don't miss the Correctional Services Museum at Pretoria Central Prison where political prisoners were incarcerated and often executed.

Red card: As with Johannesburg, be sensible but not paranoid about crime. Avoid walking alone at night, lock car doors, and keep handbags and expensive equipment out of sight.

Insider tip: If the football gets too much, one of the best places to relax in Pretoria are the Botanical Gardens, which accommodate 198 bird species and paved nature trails. Most of the plants are South African natives. Find the gardens on Cussonia Avenue in the suburb of Brummeria.

Polokwane

Explore Limpopo's beautiful province © Creative Commons / nick bl

Misconception: Sorry, Polo-what?

Word on the street:
Once called Pietersburg, Polokwane is the busy capital of Limpopo province, in the far north of the country.

Before kick off:
Old Joe's Bar at the Ranch Hotel (also a lion reserve), just out of town will help you put the world to rights; closer to home, you'll find almost everything you need at the Savannah Mall, which houses a range of reliable restaurant chains. The Pebbles Café on Mandela Street serves dinner, tea and lunch.

The final whistle:
See the first five years of the city in pictures at the Hugh Exton Photographic Museum.The Polokwane Game Reserve, with 52 species of game, is a 10-minute drive from the city. On the outskirts, the Bakone Malapa Museum highlights the lifestyle of traditional Venda indigenous tribes.

Red card:
Although Polokwane is malaria-free, some parts of the Limpopo province are malarial zones. Check before you leave the UK, and seek advice from your GP.

Insider tip:
You can see some of the world's oldest fossils at Makapan's Cave between Polokwane and Mokopane.

Rustenberg

Enjoy a safari in Pilanesberg National Park © Creative Commons / gordonflood.com

Misconception: The site of a world-famous platinum mine and not much else.

Word on the street:
Rustenburg is just over an hour from Pretoria and Johannesburg, with the Magaliesberg mountains and excellent game reserves on its doorstep.

Before kick off:
Apart from chains like Cape Town Fish Market and News Café, you can eat steak, steak and more steak at the Porterhouse in the Biblio Plaza, on the corner of Thabo Mbeki and Nelson Mandela Drives. Nearby, the Flying Dutchman and the Castle Corner are good for a few pints.

The final whistle:
If you can't get to Kruger, spot the Big Five at the Pilanesberg National Park or Madikwe Game Reserve. Head to nearby Sun City offering over-the-top glamour, with a casino, the Palace of the Lost City Hotel, and an artificial wave house for homesick surfers. Or slow down the pace and visit the Magaliesberg Meander craft route.

Red card:
Don't be tempted to drive back to Johannesburg late at night, especially after a few pints. Spend the night in Rustenburg instead.

Insider tip:
If you're lucky you can spot black eagles and Cape vultures while cycling or doing a day hike through the magnificent Kgaswane Moutain Reserve, just 4km (2.5 miles) from the town centre.


* Read our South Africa World Cup City Guide: Part 1, including Durban, Cape Town and Johannesburg.

* Mother's Day is fast aproaching. Check out our round up of some of the best Mother's Day treats at home and abroad, from twilight cruises to spa breaks.
* Feeling adventurous? Read our guide to the world's best Adventure holidays.
* Read our latest hotel review of the new, stylish Hilton Liverpool, situated in trendy Liverpool One and inspired by the city's history.

Author: Vivienne Hambly

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Adventure holidays


Blaze a trail along ancient Inca routes in Peru or raft the mighty Nile river in Uganda as we discover some of the world’s best adventure holidays.

Mountain trekking, Peru

Explore the many faces of Peru, from the frenetic city life of Ecuador's Quito to the wild wonders of the Amazon jungle. This 18-day South American tour combines adventure and outstanding natural beauty. The hiking adventure starts in Cuzco where trekkers explore the Inca spiritual sites of Sacsayhuaman and Tambo Machay before heading to the ancient sites of the Sacred Valley. The next three days are spent on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, where you will climb the steps to the Sun Gate to watch one of the world's most glorious sunrises. Next it's time to explore the heart of the Amazon jungle with expert local guides before visiting the wildlife and spectacular scenery of the Galapagos islands.
Cost: From £2,019pp.
Website: www.gapadventures.com

High-speed thrills, India

Enjoy high-octane thrills against the backdrop of one of the world's most exotic countries on a 10-day jaunt through India. Admire views of an ancient fort in Rajasthan as you whizz through the air on a zipline. A pre-dawn hot air balloon trip over this colourful city guarantees spectacular bird's eye views. You'll continue your journey to Corbett National Park for an elephant safari through tiger-rich jungles. Finally, you'll head off to some of the remotest corners of the Himalayas for the chance to spin past jaw-dropping vistas on the back of an Enfield Bullet motorbike. These stunning landscapes and adrenalin-high thrills will leave you gasping in delight - literally.
Cost: From £4,799pp.
Website: www.blacktomato.co.uk

White water rafting, Uganda

Hold on tight when you raft the Nile © Creative Commons / Graham Racher

The tourism titans of Kenya and Tanzania mean Uganda is often overlooked by wildlife lovers. However, this less explored country, known as the Pearl of Africa, offers incredible animal-spotting adventures. Your adventure holiday begins in the dense forests of Kibale where you'll follow a tracker in search of wild chimpanzees - the moment you hear their tree-beating antics is truly heart-stopping stuff. Then it's on to Biwindi Impenetrable Forest for some challenging hiking with one magical reward - the chance to encounter rare mountain gorillas. Back in bustling Kampala, grab your swimsuit for a white water rafting trip on the mighty Nile where you'll hurtle through a series of stomach-churning grade five rapids such as Rib Cage, Silverback and Jaws. Awesome.
Cost: From £2,349pp.
Website: www.adventurecompany.co.uk

Jungle river tour, Malaysia

Explore Malaysia's Taman Nagara National Park from all angles with a canopy walk and jungle boat tour, which includes three hours' gliding down the Sungai Tembeling river in a wooden boat, and tip-toeing your way through the rustling jungle canopy on a hanging bridge. For something a little wilder, venture off the beaten track into the Malaysian jungle with a four-day jungle trek in Endau Rompin National Park. After pitching your tent, spend the evening in the glow of the campfire, learn the ways of the Orang Asli indigenous group, and listen to the weird and wonderful sounds of the night time jungle.
Canopy walk and jungle boat: £168pp.
Campfire jungle trek: £256pp.
Website: www.malaysiatravelplan.co.uk

Husky safari, Finland

Enjoy a husky safari in Finland © Creative Commons / ezioman

Learn how to handle a team of fluffy huskies and zoom over the soft Scandinavian powder on this Finnish adventure focusing on a five-day husky safari. After mastering your vehicle, the safari will take you through spectacular wintery scenery, peppered with deep green forests, shimmering frozen lakes and miles and miles of gleaming white snow. You'll be covering around 40km (24 miles) a day, and the remoteness of the location means there is also a good chance of witnessing the Northern Lights. After an exhilarating day on the snow, snuggle up at night in wilderness cabins that come complete with a Scandinavian sauna.
Cost: From £1,495pp.
Website: www.responsibletravel.com

From glaciers to geysers, Iceland

Snowshoe across Iceland's sculpted scenery © Exodus

Explore Iceland's rugged south coast and the lively capital of Reykjavik on an eight-day tour. Ice-axe and climb your way up the massive Myrdalsjokul ice-cap, and marvel at the Solheimjokul glacier and the Skogafoss waterfall. The first couple of days are spent exploring the glacier and snowshoeing in the hills, offering inspirational views of the ice cap and ocean. Moving back west, the route takes in must-see sights: Gullfoss waterfall, the geothermal waterspouts at Geysir, and historic Thingvellir with its lake and volcanic rift scenery.
Cost: From £1,199pp.
Website: www.exodus.co.uk

Author: Tina Banerjee

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Istanbul 2010: Capital of Culture


With beautiful relics from Istanbul's Ottoman past standing proud alongside a flourishing contemporary art scene, this 2010 Capital of Culture is a striking showcase of ancient worlds and cutting-edge design.

While the dome of the Haghia Sophia, the grandeur of the Blue Mosque and the sights and smells of the Spice Bazaar remain at the heart of a first-time visit to Istanbul, it is the city's atmospheric Turkish cafés, cosmopolitan rooftop bars, opulent hotels, and colourful culinary heritage that make this a truly enthralling destination.

Art

Istanbul's reputation as a vibrant cultural melting pot is aptly celebrated by a diverse and thriving art scene. Formerly an Ottoman palace, the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum houses one of the world's most exemplary collections of rugs and carpets. Delve further into Turkey's past with the impressive collection of Ottoman calligraphy, stone pieces from Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman eras on display at Sabancı University's Sakıp Sabancı Museum.

Leading Istanbul's contemporary art movement, the Istanbul Modern Art Gallery, in a large converted warehouse by the Bosphorus, features everything from permanent and temporary exhibitions to photography, a library, cinema and design store. Exhibitions in Istanbul's Capital of Culture year include photography exhibition Time Within Us (until May 2010), and From Traditional to Contemporary: Cultural Memory in Modern Turkish Art (until May 2010).

See Istanbul 2010 for more art projects across the city.

Festivals

Revellers at Rock 'n' Coke festival © Creative Commons/Travelling Runes

Sitting on the cusp of Europe and Asia, Istanbul is fed by a diverse concoction of musical influences, and festivals here are a big deal. As a 2010 Capital of Culture, the city's upcoming music events are promising to be extra special.

Istanbul's most renowned festival is the International Istanbul Music Festival, which takes place across a variety of venues between 3-30 June. Performances range from traditional and modern dance displays to world-class orchestral concerts, and more intimate musical sessions.

For a heady dose of some big names in rock and pop, Rock ‘n' Coke explodes once more this July. Grab a cold beer and bop til you drop in this thriving open-air event. The 2010 line up is yet to be announced, but past acts have included American rapper Eminem and UK prog-rock group Muse.

See Istanbul 2010 for more live music across the city.

Drink

Freshly poured boza at Vefa Bozacisi © www.flickr.com/Hg2Hedonist

An arty crowd can be found at KeVe: a long-standing café tucked inside a pretty arcade filled with various plants and strings of little lights. Pull up a seat, sip a chilled drink, and feel very much part of the city's bohemian scene.

For a refreshing tea-stop in a quaint cobbled courtyard, try Haco Pulo. Or for something more potent, knock back some boza (a Turkish drink made from fermented grain), at Vefa Bozacisi; this long-standing café has been serving customers boza since the 19th century.

Sip a fresh fruit cocktail whilst taking some first-class views over the Bosphorus at Leb-i Derya Richmond - a sleek new venue catering for the larger wallet. If you're dressed to impress, continue the night at outdoor club Reina.

Food

Muzedechanga restaurant © Müzedechanga

Eat fresh Mediterranean dishes amid sleek modern style at Müzedechanga, in the grounds of the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. Decked out by prominent Istanbul designers, Müzedechanga's wooden furnishings are given a contemporary edge with glass and steel touches. When temperatures soar, join the city's glitterati in some swanky alfresco dining at Nu Teras - the rooftop jewel of entertainment complex Ne Pera.

Enjoy a seasonal menu whole-heartedly championing Istanbul's Ottoman past, at Asitane. Sample such Ottoman delights as almond soup, and stuffed vine leaves with sour cherries, before taking a wander next door to the gorgeous Byzantine Chora church.

Find a no-frills Turkish feed at Ayasofya Kebap House in Sultanahmet which serves an assortment of solid meaty dishes. Then sate a sweet tooth with some sticky baklava washed down with a potent coffee at locals' favourite patisserie Çiğdem Pastanesi.

Shopping

Carpet shop owner in Istanbul enjoys a break © Creative Commons/paljoakim

Ditch the paint-stripping bottle of raki and belly dancer Zippo lighter, and take home a piece of quality Turkish handiwork.

Pick up authentic antique carpets and beautiful kelims (woven rugs) in little A La Turca, found in fashionable Çukurcuma. For assured quality and a wide range of Asian textile products, visit Cocoon; while the eye-catching modern designs at Dhoku in the Grand Bazaar bring the traditional kelim into the 21st century.

The Design Zone found near Istanbul's Grand Bazaar features contemporary Turkish designs a plenty. Many designers work recognisable motifs from the country's Ottoman past into modern pieces, including furniture and jewellery.

Hotels

Three of Istanbul's most luxurious hotels are steeped in history, while offering a stay fit-to-bursting with 21st century comforts. Set in a neo-gothic 19th century Imperial palace, the Çırağan Palace Kempinski boasts divine Palace Suites that offer a real Sultan experience.

Opening its doors in 2006, Les Ottomans is a refurbished 1790 waterfront mansion with a treasure trove of ornate designs and antique fittings, including a marble hamam (Turkish bath).

Spend the night in a renovated raki (anise-flavored aperitif) distillery, at Sumahan-On the Water on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. This tranquil retreat fuses simple contemporary design with traditional touches, and many rooms come complete with their own Turkish bath.

Insider tip: Join students in the shisha cafés opposite the university for a relaxing afternoon socialising and playing games.

Author: Ruth-Ellen Davis

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Alternative Swiss ski holidays


When you've this many slopes it would be a shame to waste them. Catherine Quinn discovers why the Swiss have cornered the market on outlandish ways to travel downhill.

Ever wondered what it's like to plummet downhill on a wooden seat strapped to a single ski? I hadn't, until I was securely strapped in and pushed over the precipice. But then, neither had I given much thought to sledding on a blow-up surfboard, or carving the slopes on a bike equipped with snow-runners. All of these activities were part and parcel of the very unusual Swiss "cube" experience, which, I discovered was anything but square.

My first thought as I took off down the mountain was that with scenery this good I really should be paying attention. But as the mountain vistas tore by, my main focus was on staying aboard an inflatable ‘airboard' decidedly lacking in suspension. Of course I'm well aware that whilst the snow-capped hills look innocent enough from a distance, seeing them in close-up would be colourful for all the wrong reasons.

The idea behind my current mode of transport is a new concept in Switzerland. Whilst skiing is undoubtedly the most popular of winter entertainments in this part of the world a few restless locals have tired of the well-worn routes, the trusty equipment, and the tedious safety of it all and yearn for adrenalin-fuelled alternatives.

© Cube Savognin

With this in mind, the Cube Hotel was born - a residence which supplies not only skiing facilities, but a range of innovative purpose-built vehicles which will plummet down a snowy slope in new and unpredictable ways. The dual advantage of this is that the hotel also offers the unusual extra of providing a similar range of vehicles for the summer months too. Meaning thrill-seeking guests can become regular visitors all year round.

In the winter the contraptions on offer include the ‘airboard' atop which I make my first giddy plunge, and a number of other euphemistically titled adrenalin generators such as the ‘ski fox' the ‘snow bike' and the ‘snow scooter'.

Whilst these vehicles may look intimidating lined up at the base of the ski lift, all have been ingeniously designed with Swiss panache to be easily (if not adeptly) tackled by a first-timer without lessons. No small part of the appeal is that these unique forms of transport are loaned on a rolling rotation basis, making them very good value - especially for Switzerland.

Rather than loan a single vehicle, visitors are encouraged to run the gamut of what's available, so the room rate will grant you access to as many as you can get up the hill and down again before sunset.

The hotel is designed around a basic chalet style of arrangement, including full ski pass and use of the extensive facilities. Downstairs a lively bar is the precursor to an underground nightclub for those looking to enjoy the après ski ambiance from, whilst a sauna, steam room, rock-climbing wall and a la carte restaurant cater to guests with more sedate intentions during their stay.

Ski scooter © Cube Savognin

The exterior of straight glittering glass is something of a regional sight in its own right, and on my first morning, despite the chill, more than a few guests had assembled outside to enjoy breakfast against its mirrored grandeur.

As I was soon to find out, this impressive backdrop takes on a rather different hue when you're rushing by aboard a runaway lilo. But with several vehicles to get through before I could even think of having completed the Cube ‘experience' I arrived early to make my ascent.

Having chosen the gratifyingly remedial looking ‘airboard' for my first trip, I board to the uncertain realisation that my chin would be a bare few inches from the ground for the entire journey down.

Ski fox © Cube Savognin

The ski-bike is my next choice, and in retrospect would have made the best first vehicle. Despite comprising an odd looking saddle mounted on ski-style rollers it genuinely does handle very similarly to a normal push bike, with the small exception that the brakes only work when not too much momentum has been built up.

This meant the snow-bike made its unstoppable journey down the mountain, with apparently little recognition of my desperate attempts to wrest it one way or another. I spent more than one terror-filled moment being dragged towards, and then nearly off the edge as I fought to heave back in the opposite direction.

Having made it to the bottom, I was fairly anxious to surrender my cumbersome new transportation for something more sedate, but there was no such luck. I'd left the ‘ski-fox' until last, and now it was time to hurtle down the slopes sat aboard a seat mounted on a single ski.

Funnily enough, by now I was almost enjoying myself, and had paused more than once to admire the mountain magnificence sweeping past as I picked up speed.

Swinging onto the smooth curves of the final approach with the clean mountain air coasting past and the odd marmat running for cover the risk of plunging headfirst into a nearby snowdrift suddenly didn't seem to matter. And handing over my final vehicle I couldn't wait to take the chairlift back over those endless snowy slopes all over again tomorrow. In Switzerland it seems going downhill fast is the only way to travel.

Cube Savognin
Veia Sandeilas 12,
Talstation Savognin Bergbahnen
Tel. +41 (0) 81-659 14 14
Website: www.cube-savognin.ch

2010 World Cup City Guide: Part 1


Heading to South Africa for the 2010 World Cup? In the first of a two-part series, read our insider’s guide to each of the host cities to get the most out of your trip.

Durban

Misconception: Surf city is the country's sleepiest city.

Word on the street:
Durban's pace may be laid-back but you'll have to move fast to catch the best waves at 0500. Of South Africa's three major cities, Durban is perhaps the most multicultural and has spawned some of the country's best talent - look out for names like designer Amanda Laird Cherry and singers Busi Mhlongo, and Nibs van der Spuy.

Before kick off: The Elephant and Castle on bustling Florida Road and Jack Rabbit's in Morningside offer approximations of an English local, but for something more urbane, try Bean Bag Bohemia and the Beach Café on the beachfront. Spiga d'Oro is the go-to for late-night pasta and pizza. Little Gujarat and Palki restaurants celebrate Durban's Indian hertiage.

Hit the waves in Durban © Creative Commons / Vividy

The final whistle: The Rainbow Jazz Restaurant is a Durban institution but expect simple tables and quarts of beer. Do swim in the Indian Ocean: the best beaches are to the north (Umhlanga) and south (Scottburgh) of the city. Further afield, the Midlands Meander, an extensive arts and craft's route, makes a pleasant day or overnight trip.

Red card:
Avoid Point Road at night. Be circumspect about beachfront hotels; big names are good, but others, generally set back from the beach, have been sliding downhill since the 1980s.

Insider tip:
uShaka Marine World is home to one of the five largest aquariums in the world; watch the harbour workings over a drink from the deck of the BAT Centre.

Port Elizabeth

Misconception: A windy city in an industrial wasteland.

Word on the street: It's true that sand might whip your legs when the wind picks up on PE's excellent beaches but renowned Eastern Cape hospitality makes this place a friendly city.

Before kick off: There's not much permanently established around the stadium, so best to do your drinking around Summerstrand and Humewood, a 10-minute taxi ride away. Summerstrand's Boardwalk complex opposite the pier offers a casino, shopping and amusements for the kids. 34°South and 78 Restaurant and Bar dish up excellent fusion and seafood, while the Blue Waters Café hits the spot for cocktails.

PE has excellent beaches © Creative Commons / exfordy

The final whistle: Head out of town for a few days to Addo Elephant Park, enjoy outdoor adventures in the Sunday's River Valley and do the 8km (5-mile) Sacramento Trail at Sardinia Bay. Excellent surf spots - Jeffrey's bay, St Francis Bay and Cape St Francis - are an hour away on the N2 motorway. See the working fishing harbour at Port St Francis.

Red card: Steer clear of Happy Valley and other open park areas, particularly at night.

Insider tip: Walk on Shark Rock Pier and enjoy sundowners at any of the nearby pubs. Swim at Humewood and King's Beach and entertain the kids at nearby Bayworld, an oceanarium, snake park and cultural museum.

Cape Town

Misconception: Snobbish locals in this most European of African cities pretend they don't belong to the rest of country.

Word on the street: People in queues will lend you money if you're a few rand short. Cape Town is known affectionately as Slaapstad (Sleepy Town), a play on the Afrikaans name Kaapstad.

Before kick off: Fill up at the 24-hour McDonalds opposite the stadium, which was rebuilt specifically for the World Cup. Stop at Den Anker at the Waterfront for delicious Belgian beer and chips, or try any of the bars in nearby Greenpoint.

Free cable car rides up Table Mountain are offered on birthdays © Creative Commons / darkroomillusions

The final whistle: Buy the makings of a picnic at the Porter Estate Produce Market on every Saturday morning at the Chrysalis Academy behind the Tokai Forest picnic area. Don't miss the Hoerikwaggo Trail, a five-night, six-day 100km (62-mile) hike from Cape Town to Cape Point.

Red card: Don't walk up Table Mountain alone or without the proper clothing and supplies - it's more dangerous than it looks. Avoid most places in Long Street. Although it's one of the city's oldest streets bristling with shops, cafés and restaurants, it is overrated.

Insider tip: Milnerton beaches are pristine and deserted; Ashton's Restaurant at Greenways Hotel is just as good as the food at the famed Mount Nelson Hotel (or Nelly to locals) but minus the snootiness; you can use the Table Mountain cable car for free on your birthday - take ID to prove it.

Johannesburg

Misconception: An unsightly and dangerous urban sprawl of mine dumps, shopping malls and housing complexes so secure they rival Fort Knox.

Word on the street: Extremely social city in which a counter street culture is developing alongside improved anti-crime measures. It is also the world's largest man-made urban forest, thanks to a city-wide tree planting initiative.

Before kick-off:
As Jozi (as it's known to locals) is spread out, it's best to eat before you head off to a match. Parktown, Parkview, Greenside and Melrose Arch have a thriving pavement culture and a host of excellent restaurants and bars. Try Moyo, Gramadoelas and Sophiatown for unrivalled new-African cuisine.

Visiting Soweto is an eye-opener © Creative Commons / fifikins

The final whistle: Tour Soweto, passing through Vilakazi Street, once home to Nobel prize winners Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Catch up on South African history at the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill. Visit the Rosebank Mall rooftop craft market. Escape to the country on the Crocodile Ramble, an area offering adventure activities, arts and crafts plus spa hotels, or watch the sun rise over the Magaliesberg mountains on a hot air balloon safari.

Red card: Avoid ubiquitous shopping malls; be sensible but not paranoid about security - lock car doors, be discreet with expensive equipment and hold on to your handbag.

Insider tip: Admire the Joburg skyline while sipping a cocktail at Sky Bar in the Holiday Inn Sandton-Rivonia Road - it's the closest you'll get to New York in Africa. Take high tea at the Westcliff Hotel.

Bloemfontein

Misconception: Culturally and topographically flat.

Word on the street: Bloemfontein is built on a series of hills, is home to a thriving arts scene and is central to Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban.

Before kick-off: Have a pint at The Mystic Boer, the home of South Africa's alternative Afrikaans rock scene. Most pubs and restaurants, like Beef Baron and Barbas Café, are situated around Westdene; many are franchises, however.

Free State Stadium, Bloemfontein © Creative Commons / legio09

The final whistle: Drive up to the game reserve on Naval Hill in the centre of the city, stopping at the Orchid House, named after its huge collection of flowers, en route. Drive 90 minutes to Kimberley and re-live the diamond rush where the Big Hole, a gigantic, hand-dug crater, is part of the open-air Kimberley Mine Museum.

Red card: As Bloemfontein is an arid city, don't get excited about the Waterfront, which has been described as a "glorified cesspool".

Insider tip: Visit the National Women's Memorial, a memorial to the 27,000 Boer/Afrikaner women and children who died in British concentration camps during the second Anglo-Boer War. Previously unpublished Boer photographs have just been released.

* Read our South Africa World Cup City Guide: Part 2 on 1 March.

Author: Vivienne Hambly