Monday, March 29, 2010

Festivals 2010


Fancy something different to Reading Festival or Glastonbury? Check out our globe-trotting guide to alternative festivals around the world taking in everything from culture to food.

Cultural Festivals

Join the crowds: Experience the whirlwind of brightly coloured costumes, beating drums, and jeering crowds in Pamplona, Spain, during the Festival of San Fermin from 6-14 July. The most famous attraction of this renowned week-long celebration is encierro, or running of the bulls. Crowds begin amassing at 0630 for this exhilarating spectacle, in which bulls stampede behind hundreds of runners for 825m (2,706ft) to reach a bull ring. Guaranteed to get your adrenalin going.

Escape the crowds: The Tuen Ng Festival (Dragon Boat Festival) in Hong Kong celebrates a popular Chinese hero with a three-day festival of food, entertainment, and colourful boat races starting on 23 July. This exciting sporting competition involves teams of men and women paddling furiously in a flotilla of elaborately-decorated dragon boats across picturesque Victoria Harbour. It's one of the biggest events in the annual calendar and an unforgettable experience.

Food Festivals

Savour fresh lobster at the Maine Lobster Festival © Creative Commons / manray3

Join the crowds: Around 20,000 visitors are lured to the Isle of Wight every summer for an event celebrating one of the island's most pungent vegetables: garlic. Follow your nose and sniff your way to the vast Garlic Marquee where you can sample bizarre concoctions from garlic beer to garlic ice cream. If this sounds too unsavoury, don't worry: the Garlic Festival between 14-15 August embraces all of the island's produce so expect hundreds of stalls overflowing with succulent meats, dairy products, fruits, and juices. Be prepared to loosen your belt for this unbeatable food fest.

Escape the crowds: Enjoy the charm of woodsy Maine in northeast USA during a five-day festival celebrating this state's claim to fame - lobster. At the Maine Lobster Festival between 4-8 August, be amazed as 20,000 pounds of fresh, delicious Maine lobster is cooked to perfection right in front of you. Tuck in as you soak up views of scenic Penobscot Bay. With parades and fun runs, including one race where contestants have to speed across 50 partially submerged lobster crates without falling into the chilly Atlantic - all on the menu, this is a true family-friendly festival.

Film Festivals

Enjoy the beauty of Cannes © Creative Commons

Join the crowds: The Oscars may be over but the red carpet reappears for another dose of A-list glamour at the Cannes Film Festival in France. Starting on 12 May, this is the place to go for high-calibre films, celeb sightings, and all-round glamour. Although access to premieres is strictly limited, try and snap up a ticket for outdoor screenings on the beach at Cinéma de la Plage, or for Director's Fortnight when independent films are available to the paying public. Even if you don't get in, the chance to star-gaze on the Croisette, the coastal road that threads through Cannes, is movie heaven for any ardent film buff.

Escape the crowds: Don't be scared to venture away from the norm this spring. A Night of Horror International Film Festival in Sydney, Australia, is a unique and easily accessible festival promoting the darker imaginations of filmmakers around the world. Best of all, this 10-day gore fest starting on 15 April is set against the backdrop of one of the world's most beautiful cities. The event may lack Hollywood razzamatazz but when you're in such an unbeatable location, who cares?

Flower Festivals

Cherry trees blossom around Washington, DC © Creative Commons / Jeff Kubina

Join the crowds: Discover horticulturist heaven at the Chelsea Flower Show in London starting on 25 May. Admire brilliantly coloured floral arrangements crafted by talented garden designers, and enjoy sweet fragrances drifting through the air as you enjoy a meal or drink at one of the many food venues. For a chance to take home your favourite plant, stick around until 1600 on 29 May when some exhibitors begin to sell off their products. Festival tickets go fast so be sure to buy them in advance.

Escape the crowds: For flowers and fun, wander around a spectacular sea of pale white and pink blossoms in Washington DC during the National Cherry Blossom Festival. Thousands of visitors are expected to descend on the city between 27 March and 11 April, when the cherry trees are expected to bloom, signalling the start of spring. The festival in America's capital is celebrated with fireworks, a lantern lighting ceremony, street festivals, galas and cruises.

Visual Arts Festivals

Fireworks rocket over Edinburgh © Creative Commons / theedinburghblog.co.uk

Join the crowds: Visit Scotland for the 2010 Edinburgh Arts Festival - which is held as part of the summer-long main festival extravaganza - and witness a cultural explosion as talented artists contribute stunning exhibits of modern and contemporary visual art to the city's world-class museums and galleries. Events start on 29 July, and also include everything from children's storytelling tours to cooking lessons, making Edinburgh a perfect getaway with friends or family.

Escape the crowds: Head to the sunny coast of France for the Arles Photography Festival starting on 3 July. The small village, where Vincent Van Gogh once lived, is flooded with lively enthusiasts who appreciate traditional and quality photography. The festival continues until 19 September.



* Take a break in the sun, city or snow, with our Ideas for Easter Holidays.
* Ticked off Paris, Rome & Amsterdam? Check out our Top 5: Alternative short breaks.
* Read our review of the Salthouse Harbour Hotel in Ipswich for a luxury weekend in the UK.

Author: Lisa Relle

Friday, March 26, 2010

Ideas for Easter Holidays


Whether you’re planning a break in the sun, city or snow, check out our cracking range of ideas for Easter Holidays.

Easter breaks: with your other half

Where? Seychelles.
Why? A slice of paradise beckons in this Indian Ocean idyll where average temperatures hover around 29°C (84°F). Lap up the rays and you'll return home with a sun-kissed glow that will last you throughout the summer.
What? The three principle islands of this archipelago are Mahé, Praslin and La Digue, each boasting a wide selection of 5-star beach resorts that will leave you gasping in delight. Clear waters create a picture postcard setting for divers and snorkellers, while land lubbers can enjoy bird watching, dazzling white beaches and tropical forests. Wildlife lovers should visit the Aldabra atoll, a UNESCO World Heritage site, to see giant land tortoises. Around 150,000 of these incredible creatures live here, reputedly five times more than on the Galapagos Islands. If you're feeling romantic, wow your other half with a private yacht trip to a deserted island.

Easter breaks: with your mates

Spring ski in the Alps this Easter © Creative Commons / ForsterFoto

Where? Switzerland.
Why? While snow at most ski resorts in Europe is patchy in April, the high altitude of the Swiss Alps means that snow is rarely in short supply, ensuring that you can still slope off for some late season skiing.
What? Head for the car-free resort of Zermatt, Europe's highest ski resort, overlooked by the mighty Matterhorn. Featuring a mix of chocolate-box chalets and grand hotels, there is a wide range of accommodation to suit every budget. Thanks to the size of the ski area, there is plenty of terrain to suit all skiers, from beginners to experts. When you tire of skiing, go ice skating, ice climbing, tubing or snowshoeing. Alternatively, consider attractive, snowsure Saas Fee or Grindelwald bristling with lively après-ski restaurants, pubs, and cafés. Grindelwald offers special spring skiing and accommodation packages perfect for coordinating your Easter holiday. With a little bit of everything available, Switzerland ensures an ideal experience for you and all of your mates.

Easter breaks: with tots

Head to Athens for family enjoyment © Creative Commons / lightmatter

Where? Athens, Greece.
Why? The exuberant atmosphere of the Greek capital during Easter will suit the endless energy of young kids while giving parents a vibrant and entertaining cultural experience. Another bonus: average daily temperatures in April are a pleasant 20°C (68°F).
What? A series of flamboyant festivities occurs during "Great Week" from Palm Sunday to Easter Monday. In preparation of the traditional Easter roast, markets in Athens come alive, brimming with delicate meat cuts and freshly made cheeses. Visit the historic market of Psiri where free cheese is offered to kids and homemade wine is available for adults. Kids can marvel at dyed Easter eggs, strewn flower petals and candles lit throughout the city. On Easter Eve, at midnight, church bells toll, fireworks erupt and sirens blare - noise and light saturate every corner of the city. On Easter Day, local Athenians venture into the countryside to craft traditional wreaths out of wild flowers. When Easter is over, you still have Athens to explore, a city endowed with rich ancient treasures.

Easter breaks: with teens

Visit El Yunque, Puerto Rico for adventure and scenery © Creative Commons / Luiz A. Muñoz

Where? Puerto Rico, USA.
Why? Puerto Rico is a little island with big appeal. Its tropical Caribbean climate, warm waters and diverse geography will suit families looking for anything from adventure to relaxation.
What? The legacy of Spanish rule has manifested itself in the island's lively music, language, cuisine and architecture. Base yourself in the capital San Juan and visit the old town where an impressive Spanish fortress overlooks sparkling turquoise seas. To really awe your teens, take them to the tropical rainforest of El Yunque, where they can hike endless paths and marvel at exotic plants and birds. Or head for the huge waves at Rincon, on the island's west coast, which attracts talented surfers year-round. If you plan to relax in luxury, stay at the El Conquistador Resort on the northeast coast. This tropical haven offers a myriad of activities. Teens can slip and slide in the expansive seaside water park, putt around a golf course, enjoy treatments designed specifically for teens at the spa, play tennis, basketball or volleyball, scuba-dive and fish.



* Heading to South Africa? Read insider tips in our 2010 World Cup City Guide.
* Check out our Top 5: Mother's Day gifts, from twilight cruises to spa breaks.
* Read our review of the new, stylish Hilton Liverpool, inspired by the city's history.

Author: Lisa Relle

2010 World Cup City Guide: Part 2


In part two of our World Cup City Guide, we explore South Africa’s lesser-known host cities, which despite being off the well-beaten tourist routes, offer a wealth of things to see and do.

Nelspruit

Misconception: A dull agricultural supply centre.

Word on the street: Despite being in a major fruit growing region, Nelspruit is the gateway to fantastic game lodges. It's also close to the land-locked Kingdom of Swaziland and beautiful Mozambique.

Before kick off: 10 on Russell, in the Central Business District, delivers excellent food and service from the oldest building in town. Be sure to try the trout at Chez Vincent on Ferreira Street. The Hillside Tavern Steak House and Pub in the Village Centre is good for rowdier evenings.

The final whistle: Use Nelspruit as a base to go on a safari in Kruger National Park; eat mopane worms at Shangana Cultural Village just outside the town Hazyview, 45km (28 miles) north of Nelspruit; see stalactites and stalagmites in two-million-year-old Sudwala Caves, the world's oldest caves; take in incredible views of the Blyde River Canyon from God's Window viewpoint near Graskop; do a spot of fly-fishing in quaint Dullstroom.

Red card: Consider the region's private game reserves carefully before you part with your cash - you may well have a much better experience at the state-run Kruger National Park.

Insider tip: Soak up wild South Africa from the deck of Makulu Manzi (Big Water) Restaurant overlooking the Crocodile River in the Lowveld National Botanical Garden. The gardens also have a great collection of cycads and baobab trees.

Pretoria

Pretoria's Voortrekker Monument © Creative Commons / Mister-E

Misconception: The home of conservative Afrikanerdom.

Word on the street: Since political change, Pretoria has become a fast-paced, cosmopolitan capital city and is now associated with rock bands like Desmond and the Tutus, Wonderboom, and the maverick, anti-establishment Afrikaner musicians Johannes Kerkorrel and Koos Kombuis.

Before kick off: Hatfield and Brooklyn are the suburbs for eating and drinking - try Tings and Times and News Café. Closer to the stadium, the Eastwood Tavern is great for a pre- or post-match pint. Order excellent grills from family-friendly The Godfather, on the corner of Heuwel and Mike Crawford Streets, or try the ostrich kebabs at the Blue Crane on Melk Street.

The final whistle:
The Herbert Baker-designed seat of government, the Union Buildings, offer a fantastic view of the city. Church Square in the city centre has a monument to Boer leader and one-time president, Paul Kruger, but within spitting distance is the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela was tried for treason. Don't miss the Correctional Services Museum at Pretoria Central Prison where political prisoners were incarcerated and often executed.

Red card: As with Johannesburg, be sensible but not paranoid about crime. Avoid walking alone at night, lock car doors, and keep handbags and expensive equipment out of sight.

Insider tip: If the football gets too much, one of the best places to relax in Pretoria are the Botanical Gardens, which accommodate 198 bird species and paved nature trails. Most of the plants are South African natives. Find the gardens on Cussonia Avenue in the suburb of Brummeria.

Polokwane

Explore Limpopo's beautiful province © Creative Commons / nick bl

Misconception: Sorry, Polo-what?

Word on the street:
Once called Pietersburg, Polokwane is the busy capital of Limpopo province, in the far north of the country.

Before kick off:
Old Joe's Bar at the Ranch Hotel (also a lion reserve), just out of town will help you put the world to rights; closer to home, you'll find almost everything you need at the Savannah Mall, which houses a range of reliable restaurant chains. The Pebbles Café on Mandela Street serves dinner, tea and lunch.

The final whistle:
See the first five years of the city in pictures at the Hugh Exton Photographic Museum.The Polokwane Game Reserve, with 52 species of game, is a 10-minute drive from the city. On the outskirts, the Bakone Malapa Museum highlights the lifestyle of traditional Venda indigenous tribes.

Red card:
Although Polokwane is malaria-free, some parts of the Limpopo province are malarial zones. Check before you leave the UK, and seek advice from your GP.

Insider tip:
You can see some of the world's oldest fossils at Makapan's Cave between Polokwane and Mokopane.

Rustenberg

Enjoy a safari in Pilanesberg National Park © Creative Commons / gordonflood.com

Misconception: The site of a world-famous platinum mine and not much else.

Word on the street:
Rustenburg is just over an hour from Pretoria and Johannesburg, with the Magaliesberg mountains and excellent game reserves on its doorstep.

Before kick off:
Apart from chains like Cape Town Fish Market and News Café, you can eat steak, steak and more steak at the Porterhouse in the Biblio Plaza, on the corner of Thabo Mbeki and Nelson Mandela Drives. Nearby, the Flying Dutchman and the Castle Corner are good for a few pints.

The final whistle:
If you can't get to Kruger, spot the Big Five at the Pilanesberg National Park or Madikwe Game Reserve. Head to nearby Sun City offering over-the-top glamour, with a casino, the Palace of the Lost City Hotel, and an artificial wave house for homesick surfers. Or slow down the pace and visit the Magaliesberg Meander craft route.

Red card:
Don't be tempted to drive back to Johannesburg late at night, especially after a few pints. Spend the night in Rustenburg instead.

Insider tip:
If you're lucky you can spot black eagles and Cape vultures while cycling or doing a day hike through the magnificent Kgaswane Moutain Reserve, just 4km (2.5 miles) from the town centre.


* Read our South Africa World Cup City Guide: Part 1, including Durban, Cape Town and Johannesburg.

* Mother's Day is fast aproaching. Check out our round up of some of the best Mother's Day treats at home and abroad, from twilight cruises to spa breaks.
* Feeling adventurous? Read our guide to the world's best Adventure holidays.
* Read our latest hotel review of the new, stylish Hilton Liverpool, situated in trendy Liverpool One and inspired by the city's history.

Author: Vivienne Hambly

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Adventure holidays


Blaze a trail along ancient Inca routes in Peru or raft the mighty Nile river in Uganda as we discover some of the world’s best adventure holidays.

Mountain trekking, Peru

Explore the many faces of Peru, from the frenetic city life of Ecuador's Quito to the wild wonders of the Amazon jungle. This 18-day South American tour combines adventure and outstanding natural beauty. The hiking adventure starts in Cuzco where trekkers explore the Inca spiritual sites of Sacsayhuaman and Tambo Machay before heading to the ancient sites of the Sacred Valley. The next three days are spent on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, where you will climb the steps to the Sun Gate to watch one of the world's most glorious sunrises. Next it's time to explore the heart of the Amazon jungle with expert local guides before visiting the wildlife and spectacular scenery of the Galapagos islands.
Cost: From £2,019pp.
Website: www.gapadventures.com

High-speed thrills, India

Enjoy high-octane thrills against the backdrop of one of the world's most exotic countries on a 10-day jaunt through India. Admire views of an ancient fort in Rajasthan as you whizz through the air on a zipline. A pre-dawn hot air balloon trip over this colourful city guarantees spectacular bird's eye views. You'll continue your journey to Corbett National Park for an elephant safari through tiger-rich jungles. Finally, you'll head off to some of the remotest corners of the Himalayas for the chance to spin past jaw-dropping vistas on the back of an Enfield Bullet motorbike. These stunning landscapes and adrenalin-high thrills will leave you gasping in delight - literally.
Cost: From £4,799pp.
Website: www.blacktomato.co.uk

White water rafting, Uganda

Hold on tight when you raft the Nile © Creative Commons / Graham Racher

The tourism titans of Kenya and Tanzania mean Uganda is often overlooked by wildlife lovers. However, this less explored country, known as the Pearl of Africa, offers incredible animal-spotting adventures. Your adventure holiday begins in the dense forests of Kibale where you'll follow a tracker in search of wild chimpanzees - the moment you hear their tree-beating antics is truly heart-stopping stuff. Then it's on to Biwindi Impenetrable Forest for some challenging hiking with one magical reward - the chance to encounter rare mountain gorillas. Back in bustling Kampala, grab your swimsuit for a white water rafting trip on the mighty Nile where you'll hurtle through a series of stomach-churning grade five rapids such as Rib Cage, Silverback and Jaws. Awesome.
Cost: From £2,349pp.
Website: www.adventurecompany.co.uk

Jungle river tour, Malaysia

Explore Malaysia's Taman Nagara National Park from all angles with a canopy walk and jungle boat tour, which includes three hours' gliding down the Sungai Tembeling river in a wooden boat, and tip-toeing your way through the rustling jungle canopy on a hanging bridge. For something a little wilder, venture off the beaten track into the Malaysian jungle with a four-day jungle trek in Endau Rompin National Park. After pitching your tent, spend the evening in the glow of the campfire, learn the ways of the Orang Asli indigenous group, and listen to the weird and wonderful sounds of the night time jungle.
Canopy walk and jungle boat: £168pp.
Campfire jungle trek: £256pp.
Website: www.malaysiatravelplan.co.uk

Husky safari, Finland

Enjoy a husky safari in Finland © Creative Commons / ezioman

Learn how to handle a team of fluffy huskies and zoom over the soft Scandinavian powder on this Finnish adventure focusing on a five-day husky safari. After mastering your vehicle, the safari will take you through spectacular wintery scenery, peppered with deep green forests, shimmering frozen lakes and miles and miles of gleaming white snow. You'll be covering around 40km (24 miles) a day, and the remoteness of the location means there is also a good chance of witnessing the Northern Lights. After an exhilarating day on the snow, snuggle up at night in wilderness cabins that come complete with a Scandinavian sauna.
Cost: From £1,495pp.
Website: www.responsibletravel.com

From glaciers to geysers, Iceland

Snowshoe across Iceland's sculpted scenery © Exodus

Explore Iceland's rugged south coast and the lively capital of Reykjavik on an eight-day tour. Ice-axe and climb your way up the massive Myrdalsjokul ice-cap, and marvel at the Solheimjokul glacier and the Skogafoss waterfall. The first couple of days are spent exploring the glacier and snowshoeing in the hills, offering inspirational views of the ice cap and ocean. Moving back west, the route takes in must-see sights: Gullfoss waterfall, the geothermal waterspouts at Geysir, and historic Thingvellir with its lake and volcanic rift scenery.
Cost: From £1,199pp.
Website: www.exodus.co.uk

Author: Tina Banerjee

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Istanbul 2010: Capital of Culture


With beautiful relics from Istanbul's Ottoman past standing proud alongside a flourishing contemporary art scene, this 2010 Capital of Culture is a striking showcase of ancient worlds and cutting-edge design.

While the dome of the Haghia Sophia, the grandeur of the Blue Mosque and the sights and smells of the Spice Bazaar remain at the heart of a first-time visit to Istanbul, it is the city's atmospheric Turkish cafés, cosmopolitan rooftop bars, opulent hotels, and colourful culinary heritage that make this a truly enthralling destination.

Art

Istanbul's reputation as a vibrant cultural melting pot is aptly celebrated by a diverse and thriving art scene. Formerly an Ottoman palace, the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum houses one of the world's most exemplary collections of rugs and carpets. Delve further into Turkey's past with the impressive collection of Ottoman calligraphy, stone pieces from Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman eras on display at Sabancı University's Sakıp Sabancı Museum.

Leading Istanbul's contemporary art movement, the Istanbul Modern Art Gallery, in a large converted warehouse by the Bosphorus, features everything from permanent and temporary exhibitions to photography, a library, cinema and design store. Exhibitions in Istanbul's Capital of Culture year include photography exhibition Time Within Us (until May 2010), and From Traditional to Contemporary: Cultural Memory in Modern Turkish Art (until May 2010).

See Istanbul 2010 for more art projects across the city.

Festivals

Revellers at Rock 'n' Coke festival © Creative Commons/Travelling Runes

Sitting on the cusp of Europe and Asia, Istanbul is fed by a diverse concoction of musical influences, and festivals here are a big deal. As a 2010 Capital of Culture, the city's upcoming music events are promising to be extra special.

Istanbul's most renowned festival is the International Istanbul Music Festival, which takes place across a variety of venues between 3-30 June. Performances range from traditional and modern dance displays to world-class orchestral concerts, and more intimate musical sessions.

For a heady dose of some big names in rock and pop, Rock ‘n' Coke explodes once more this July. Grab a cold beer and bop til you drop in this thriving open-air event. The 2010 line up is yet to be announced, but past acts have included American rapper Eminem and UK prog-rock group Muse.

See Istanbul 2010 for more live music across the city.

Drink

Freshly poured boza at Vefa Bozacisi © www.flickr.com/Hg2Hedonist

An arty crowd can be found at KeVe: a long-standing café tucked inside a pretty arcade filled with various plants and strings of little lights. Pull up a seat, sip a chilled drink, and feel very much part of the city's bohemian scene.

For a refreshing tea-stop in a quaint cobbled courtyard, try Haco Pulo. Or for something more potent, knock back some boza (a Turkish drink made from fermented grain), at Vefa Bozacisi; this long-standing café has been serving customers boza since the 19th century.

Sip a fresh fruit cocktail whilst taking some first-class views over the Bosphorus at Leb-i Derya Richmond - a sleek new venue catering for the larger wallet. If you're dressed to impress, continue the night at outdoor club Reina.

Food

Muzedechanga restaurant © Müzedechanga

Eat fresh Mediterranean dishes amid sleek modern style at Müzedechanga, in the grounds of the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. Decked out by prominent Istanbul designers, Müzedechanga's wooden furnishings are given a contemporary edge with glass and steel touches. When temperatures soar, join the city's glitterati in some swanky alfresco dining at Nu Teras - the rooftop jewel of entertainment complex Ne Pera.

Enjoy a seasonal menu whole-heartedly championing Istanbul's Ottoman past, at Asitane. Sample such Ottoman delights as almond soup, and stuffed vine leaves with sour cherries, before taking a wander next door to the gorgeous Byzantine Chora church.

Find a no-frills Turkish feed at Ayasofya Kebap House in Sultanahmet which serves an assortment of solid meaty dishes. Then sate a sweet tooth with some sticky baklava washed down with a potent coffee at locals' favourite patisserie Çiğdem Pastanesi.

Shopping

Carpet shop owner in Istanbul enjoys a break © Creative Commons/paljoakim

Ditch the paint-stripping bottle of raki and belly dancer Zippo lighter, and take home a piece of quality Turkish handiwork.

Pick up authentic antique carpets and beautiful kelims (woven rugs) in little A La Turca, found in fashionable Çukurcuma. For assured quality and a wide range of Asian textile products, visit Cocoon; while the eye-catching modern designs at Dhoku in the Grand Bazaar bring the traditional kelim into the 21st century.

The Design Zone found near Istanbul's Grand Bazaar features contemporary Turkish designs a plenty. Many designers work recognisable motifs from the country's Ottoman past into modern pieces, including furniture and jewellery.

Hotels

Three of Istanbul's most luxurious hotels are steeped in history, while offering a stay fit-to-bursting with 21st century comforts. Set in a neo-gothic 19th century Imperial palace, the Çırağan Palace Kempinski boasts divine Palace Suites that offer a real Sultan experience.

Opening its doors in 2006, Les Ottomans is a refurbished 1790 waterfront mansion with a treasure trove of ornate designs and antique fittings, including a marble hamam (Turkish bath).

Spend the night in a renovated raki (anise-flavored aperitif) distillery, at Sumahan-On the Water on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. This tranquil retreat fuses simple contemporary design with traditional touches, and many rooms come complete with their own Turkish bath.

Insider tip: Join students in the shisha cafés opposite the university for a relaxing afternoon socialising and playing games.

Author: Ruth-Ellen Davis

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Alternative Swiss ski holidays


When you've this many slopes it would be a shame to waste them. Catherine Quinn discovers why the Swiss have cornered the market on outlandish ways to travel downhill.

Ever wondered what it's like to plummet downhill on a wooden seat strapped to a single ski? I hadn't, until I was securely strapped in and pushed over the precipice. But then, neither had I given much thought to sledding on a blow-up surfboard, or carving the slopes on a bike equipped with snow-runners. All of these activities were part and parcel of the very unusual Swiss "cube" experience, which, I discovered was anything but square.

My first thought as I took off down the mountain was that with scenery this good I really should be paying attention. But as the mountain vistas tore by, my main focus was on staying aboard an inflatable ‘airboard' decidedly lacking in suspension. Of course I'm well aware that whilst the snow-capped hills look innocent enough from a distance, seeing them in close-up would be colourful for all the wrong reasons.

The idea behind my current mode of transport is a new concept in Switzerland. Whilst skiing is undoubtedly the most popular of winter entertainments in this part of the world a few restless locals have tired of the well-worn routes, the trusty equipment, and the tedious safety of it all and yearn for adrenalin-fuelled alternatives.

© Cube Savognin

With this in mind, the Cube Hotel was born - a residence which supplies not only skiing facilities, but a range of innovative purpose-built vehicles which will plummet down a snowy slope in new and unpredictable ways. The dual advantage of this is that the hotel also offers the unusual extra of providing a similar range of vehicles for the summer months too. Meaning thrill-seeking guests can become regular visitors all year round.

In the winter the contraptions on offer include the ‘airboard' atop which I make my first giddy plunge, and a number of other euphemistically titled adrenalin generators such as the ‘ski fox' the ‘snow bike' and the ‘snow scooter'.

Whilst these vehicles may look intimidating lined up at the base of the ski lift, all have been ingeniously designed with Swiss panache to be easily (if not adeptly) tackled by a first-timer without lessons. No small part of the appeal is that these unique forms of transport are loaned on a rolling rotation basis, making them very good value - especially for Switzerland.

Rather than loan a single vehicle, visitors are encouraged to run the gamut of what's available, so the room rate will grant you access to as many as you can get up the hill and down again before sunset.

The hotel is designed around a basic chalet style of arrangement, including full ski pass and use of the extensive facilities. Downstairs a lively bar is the precursor to an underground nightclub for those looking to enjoy the après ski ambiance from, whilst a sauna, steam room, rock-climbing wall and a la carte restaurant cater to guests with more sedate intentions during their stay.

Ski scooter © Cube Savognin

The exterior of straight glittering glass is something of a regional sight in its own right, and on my first morning, despite the chill, more than a few guests had assembled outside to enjoy breakfast against its mirrored grandeur.

As I was soon to find out, this impressive backdrop takes on a rather different hue when you're rushing by aboard a runaway lilo. But with several vehicles to get through before I could even think of having completed the Cube ‘experience' I arrived early to make my ascent.

Having chosen the gratifyingly remedial looking ‘airboard' for my first trip, I board to the uncertain realisation that my chin would be a bare few inches from the ground for the entire journey down.

Ski fox © Cube Savognin

The ski-bike is my next choice, and in retrospect would have made the best first vehicle. Despite comprising an odd looking saddle mounted on ski-style rollers it genuinely does handle very similarly to a normal push bike, with the small exception that the brakes only work when not too much momentum has been built up.

This meant the snow-bike made its unstoppable journey down the mountain, with apparently little recognition of my desperate attempts to wrest it one way or another. I spent more than one terror-filled moment being dragged towards, and then nearly off the edge as I fought to heave back in the opposite direction.

Having made it to the bottom, I was fairly anxious to surrender my cumbersome new transportation for something more sedate, but there was no such luck. I'd left the ‘ski-fox' until last, and now it was time to hurtle down the slopes sat aboard a seat mounted on a single ski.

Funnily enough, by now I was almost enjoying myself, and had paused more than once to admire the mountain magnificence sweeping past as I picked up speed.

Swinging onto the smooth curves of the final approach with the clean mountain air coasting past and the odd marmat running for cover the risk of plunging headfirst into a nearby snowdrift suddenly didn't seem to matter. And handing over my final vehicle I couldn't wait to take the chairlift back over those endless snowy slopes all over again tomorrow. In Switzerland it seems going downhill fast is the only way to travel.

Cube Savognin
Veia Sandeilas 12,
Talstation Savognin Bergbahnen
Tel. +41 (0) 81-659 14 14
Website: www.cube-savognin.ch

2010 World Cup City Guide: Part 1


Heading to South Africa for the 2010 World Cup? In the first of a two-part series, read our insider’s guide to each of the host cities to get the most out of your trip.

Durban

Misconception: Surf city is the country's sleepiest city.

Word on the street:
Durban's pace may be laid-back but you'll have to move fast to catch the best waves at 0500. Of South Africa's three major cities, Durban is perhaps the most multicultural and has spawned some of the country's best talent - look out for names like designer Amanda Laird Cherry and singers Busi Mhlongo, and Nibs van der Spuy.

Before kick off: The Elephant and Castle on bustling Florida Road and Jack Rabbit's in Morningside offer approximations of an English local, but for something more urbane, try Bean Bag Bohemia and the Beach Café on the beachfront. Spiga d'Oro is the go-to for late-night pasta and pizza. Little Gujarat and Palki restaurants celebrate Durban's Indian hertiage.

Hit the waves in Durban © Creative Commons / Vividy

The final whistle: The Rainbow Jazz Restaurant is a Durban institution but expect simple tables and quarts of beer. Do swim in the Indian Ocean: the best beaches are to the north (Umhlanga) and south (Scottburgh) of the city. Further afield, the Midlands Meander, an extensive arts and craft's route, makes a pleasant day or overnight trip.

Red card:
Avoid Point Road at night. Be circumspect about beachfront hotels; big names are good, but others, generally set back from the beach, have been sliding downhill since the 1980s.

Insider tip:
uShaka Marine World is home to one of the five largest aquariums in the world; watch the harbour workings over a drink from the deck of the BAT Centre.

Port Elizabeth

Misconception: A windy city in an industrial wasteland.

Word on the street: It's true that sand might whip your legs when the wind picks up on PE's excellent beaches but renowned Eastern Cape hospitality makes this place a friendly city.

Before kick off: There's not much permanently established around the stadium, so best to do your drinking around Summerstrand and Humewood, a 10-minute taxi ride away. Summerstrand's Boardwalk complex opposite the pier offers a casino, shopping and amusements for the kids. 34°South and 78 Restaurant and Bar dish up excellent fusion and seafood, while the Blue Waters Café hits the spot for cocktails.

PE has excellent beaches © Creative Commons / exfordy

The final whistle: Head out of town for a few days to Addo Elephant Park, enjoy outdoor adventures in the Sunday's River Valley and do the 8km (5-mile) Sacramento Trail at Sardinia Bay. Excellent surf spots - Jeffrey's bay, St Francis Bay and Cape St Francis - are an hour away on the N2 motorway. See the working fishing harbour at Port St Francis.

Red card: Steer clear of Happy Valley and other open park areas, particularly at night.

Insider tip: Walk on Shark Rock Pier and enjoy sundowners at any of the nearby pubs. Swim at Humewood and King's Beach and entertain the kids at nearby Bayworld, an oceanarium, snake park and cultural museum.

Cape Town

Misconception: Snobbish locals in this most European of African cities pretend they don't belong to the rest of country.

Word on the street: People in queues will lend you money if you're a few rand short. Cape Town is known affectionately as Slaapstad (Sleepy Town), a play on the Afrikaans name Kaapstad.

Before kick off: Fill up at the 24-hour McDonalds opposite the stadium, which was rebuilt specifically for the World Cup. Stop at Den Anker at the Waterfront for delicious Belgian beer and chips, or try any of the bars in nearby Greenpoint.

Free cable car rides up Table Mountain are offered on birthdays © Creative Commons / darkroomillusions

The final whistle: Buy the makings of a picnic at the Porter Estate Produce Market on every Saturday morning at the Chrysalis Academy behind the Tokai Forest picnic area. Don't miss the Hoerikwaggo Trail, a five-night, six-day 100km (62-mile) hike from Cape Town to Cape Point.

Red card: Don't walk up Table Mountain alone or without the proper clothing and supplies - it's more dangerous than it looks. Avoid most places in Long Street. Although it's one of the city's oldest streets bristling with shops, cafés and restaurants, it is overrated.

Insider tip: Milnerton beaches are pristine and deserted; Ashton's Restaurant at Greenways Hotel is just as good as the food at the famed Mount Nelson Hotel (or Nelly to locals) but minus the snootiness; you can use the Table Mountain cable car for free on your birthday - take ID to prove it.

Johannesburg

Misconception: An unsightly and dangerous urban sprawl of mine dumps, shopping malls and housing complexes so secure they rival Fort Knox.

Word on the street: Extremely social city in which a counter street culture is developing alongside improved anti-crime measures. It is also the world's largest man-made urban forest, thanks to a city-wide tree planting initiative.

Before kick-off:
As Jozi (as it's known to locals) is spread out, it's best to eat before you head off to a match. Parktown, Parkview, Greenside and Melrose Arch have a thriving pavement culture and a host of excellent restaurants and bars. Try Moyo, Gramadoelas and Sophiatown for unrivalled new-African cuisine.

Visiting Soweto is an eye-opener © Creative Commons / fifikins

The final whistle: Tour Soweto, passing through Vilakazi Street, once home to Nobel prize winners Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Catch up on South African history at the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill. Visit the Rosebank Mall rooftop craft market. Escape to the country on the Crocodile Ramble, an area offering adventure activities, arts and crafts plus spa hotels, or watch the sun rise over the Magaliesberg mountains on a hot air balloon safari.

Red card: Avoid ubiquitous shopping malls; be sensible but not paranoid about security - lock car doors, be discreet with expensive equipment and hold on to your handbag.

Insider tip: Admire the Joburg skyline while sipping a cocktail at Sky Bar in the Holiday Inn Sandton-Rivonia Road - it's the closest you'll get to New York in Africa. Take high tea at the Westcliff Hotel.

Bloemfontein

Misconception: Culturally and topographically flat.

Word on the street: Bloemfontein is built on a series of hills, is home to a thriving arts scene and is central to Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban.

Before kick-off: Have a pint at The Mystic Boer, the home of South Africa's alternative Afrikaans rock scene. Most pubs and restaurants, like Beef Baron and Barbas Café, are situated around Westdene; many are franchises, however.

Free State Stadium, Bloemfontein © Creative Commons / legio09

The final whistle: Drive up to the game reserve on Naval Hill in the centre of the city, stopping at the Orchid House, named after its huge collection of flowers, en route. Drive 90 minutes to Kimberley and re-live the diamond rush where the Big Hole, a gigantic, hand-dug crater, is part of the open-air Kimberley Mine Museum.

Red card: As Bloemfontein is an arid city, don't get excited about the Waterfront, which has been described as a "glorified cesspool".

Insider tip: Visit the National Women's Memorial, a memorial to the 27,000 Boer/Afrikaner women and children who died in British concentration camps during the second Anglo-Boer War. Previously unpublished Boer photographs have just been released.

* Read our South Africa World Cup City Guide: Part 2 on 1 March.

Author: Vivienne Hambly

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Winter sun: Alternative South American beaches


With the weather on the wrong side of brisk, it's the perfect time to escape to South America's lesser-known beaches. From tropical Brazil to leisurely-paced Uruguay, find sunshine, sand and plenty of much-needed space.

Argentina: Pinamar and Cariló

Forget the kiss-me-quick city Mar del Plata and its faded glory days, and head to Pinamar and Cariló - two glamorous yet low-key small resorts on the Atlantic coast, 340km (211 miles) south of the Argentine capital Buenos Aires. Luxurious homes exist harmoniously within the 90-year-old pine forest, and these two towns, with Mar de Ostende and Valeria del Mar nestling between them, spring to life in the summer months with local tourists filling hotel rooms and renting out private homes.

Kite surfing and beach parties

4x4 on Pinamar © Creative Commons / RogerBits

Pinamar, the larger of the pair, is home to dozens of beach clubs dotted along 8km (5 miles) of dunes, allowing you to claim plenty of grain space. Kite surfing has taken off in the past few years but you can also try your hand at sand boarding, surfing, horse riding and deep sea fishing, or even rent a 4x4 and head north to tackle the dunes yourself. Although temperatures cool in the evenings, after-beach parties around a crackling campfire are de rigueur.

Sand dunes and spas

Cariló (which means ‘green sand dune' in the Indian Mapuche language) meanwhile, boasts 300m- (984ft-) wide dunes (which Francis Ford Coppola used as a setting for The Hamptons in 2009 film Tetro) and hotels with fabulous spa facilities. The emphasis is on couples and families being pampered to the max, then heading off to their Italian Riviera-style beach tent to while away the sunny hours in the 30-degree heat, cool cocktail in one hand, magazine in the other.

Uruguay: Punta del Diablo

It's worth dropping into the ritzy Punta del Este for a 24-hour Eurotrash explosion, if only to say you've seen the thoroughly ostentatious display of enormous yachts, surgically enhanced bodies and large twinkling jewels. But, for rest and relaxation, head for the lazy fishing village of Punta del Diablo - 298km (185 miles) from Uruguay's capital city Montevideo - a beachside spot so laidback, that it's practically buried in the sand.

Peace and quiet

Punta del Diablo © Creative Commons / Libertinus

Punta del Diablo prides itself on not having any hotels - lodgings are simple two or three-roomed cabins - and just nine restaurants and bars open their doors; be sure to tuck into a super-fresh shark steak caught from the local waters. Sun worshippers and surfers mingle on the main beach, which sweeps along in front of the town centre, but venturing north or south will guarantee extra seclusion. While a stay in Punta del Diablo is one of meandering coastal walks coupled with lashings of peace and quiet, more and more cabañas are springing up, meaning its off-the-beaten-track days are numbered, albeit at an unhurried Uruguayan pace.

Brazil: Trancoso

While Copacabana is an obvious Brazilian hotspot, the hill-top town of Trancoso in the southern part of Bahia state is a beachside beauty which has so far avoided the jostling crowds and tacky tourist attractions of the country's more publicised coastal strips. This tropical destination is surrounded by cocoa tree plantations; vegetation lines the coast, and the clear, warm waters and small waves lapping at the feet of this fishing town are perfect for swimming and snorkelling (though a less than ideal spot for surfers) and the pristine white beach is a regular spot for yoga and meditation.

Hammocks and chocolate

Praia do Espelho © Creative Commons

Although there are some boutique hotels offering holistic treatments, the genuine Trancoso vibe is about pitching up a hammock (buy one on the beach), and soaking up this town's relaxed spirit while gently rocking yourself off for a snooze. For trinkets and handmade gifts, head to main square Quadrado Historico, but do look out for ‘Peixe Frito' or ‘Fried Fish', a friendly chocolate seller called Lincoln who can be found plying his delicious, locally made wares on the beach. Trancoso provides an excellent base from which to explore other places such as Praia do Espelho, considered the most beautiful beach in Bahia; Caraíva, a native Indian village hidden in a nature reserve, and only accessible by canoe; or Itacaré for those in need of a surf fix.

Chile: Valparaíso and Viña del Mar

From fishing coves to the crazy cable cars whisking you up the steeply inclined 100m (328ft) hill to reach town, Valparaíso blends quaint painted houses with its busy fishing port, as well as narrow passages and European mansions. Hills provide a pretty backdrop to the cobbled alleyways and sandy architecture of this attractive town - a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2003 - and the harbour is a lovely bird watching spot.

Powerful surf and pristine parks

Viña del Mar © Creative Commons

North of Valparaíso, Viña del Mar is a true Pacific beach experience: the waters are cool and the surf powerful enough to often warrant a red flag, so let loose your inner child, and splash around in the shallows before returning to the tufty dense sands which resemble static curling waves. Known as the Garden City, Viña del Mar is located 120km (75 miles) west of capital city Santiago, and boasts villas, three castles, pristine parks and hosts the International Song Festival every February. For more basking in the sun and frolicking in the sand, wind you way back down the coast to secluded Reñaca, an hour south of Viña del Mar, where you can certainly claim the beach as your own for the day.

Insider tip: Although January and February indicate high season across the region, prices do drop substantially in November and March, as do visitor numbers, guaranteeing more sand for your pound.

Author: Sorrel Moseley-Williams

Egypt holidays: Diving in Sharm el-Sheikh


Escape Britain’s cold snap and take the plunge in the Red Sea on a diving holiday. It’s guaranteed to have you hooked, as Heidi Fuller-love discovers.

As the closest tropical waters to Europe, the Red Sea is a mecca for those seeking a diving holiday. Fed by the Indian Ocean and hemmed in by the Sahara desert, Ras Mohammed National Park accessible from Sharm el-Sheikh boasts some of the world's best dive sites.

Consider the stats and you can see why. Created in 1983, this vast marine reserve teems with more than 1,200 species of fish, as well as turtles, manta rays and sharks. This is partially due to the fact the Red Sea is fringed by 2,000km (1,240 miles) of coral reefs.

With water temperatures rarely sliding below 20°C (68°F) and plenty of value-for-money hotel packages available, Sharm el-Sheikh offers a fantastic, affordable, year-round dive destination.

Underwater dive signals © Heidi Fuller-love

Choose a learn-to-dive course

Recently commended by judges in Virgin Holidays' prestigious Responsible Tourism Awards, I headed for the Camel Dive Club in the buzzing Sharm el-Sheikh resort of Na'ama Bay, one of the Red Sea's best established diving centres.

Checking into the club's 48-room hotel, I discovered a lobby cluttered with gas bottles and diving masks. The following morning when I flung open the double doors of my room, I was greeted by the sight of learner divers flopping around in the club's specially designed pool.

Novice divers in Sharm el-Sheikh © Heidi Fuller-love

Your first plunge

If you want to learn to dive, but still want time to explore the sights around Sharm el-Sheikh too, opt for a two-day learner course costing around €199 (£176).

Joining a group of five other students, our first lesson involved learning underwater sign language gestures and basic diving know-how before we headed for the pool.

Kitted out in skin-tight wetsuits, masks, fins and an unwieldy weight belt, we practised breathing through our regulators, then plunged into the water one by one and sank to the bottom.

It took a while to adapt to the bizarre sensation of seeing the world through several metres of water, but we soon felt confident enough to master the tricky art of emptying water from our masks, which can happen during a leakage, without returning to the surface.

Next we practised controlling our diving buoyancy. Lying on the bottom of pool face downwards, we slowly added air to our BCDs (Buoyancy Control Devices) until we began to float.

Gathering up our gear, we set out for Na'ama Bay, a 2km (1.2-mile) stretch of beach strewn with suntanned bodies, where a special area penned off for novice divers proved ideal for practising the skills we had learnt in the swimming pool.

Dazzling marine and coral life © Creative Commons / prilfish

On the final day, a boat puttered us out to a dive site called Near Garden for our first real experience of the deep blue. The spectacular explosion of colour beneath the waves as we dived down to a maximum depth of 12m (39ft) was dazzling.

Surrounded by shoals of striped anemone fish, we watched bulging-eyed puffer fish fossicking amongst vividly coloured corals, whilst blue-spotted stingrays stirred up sand on the seabed far below.

At first it was difficult not to panic at the sight of shadowy, shark-like forms shifting in the deeper gloom ahead of us, but we soon got used to being the smaller fish in this very big pond. It was eye-boggling. By the time I returned to the surface, I was hooked.

In and around Sharm el-Sheikh

Sharm el-Sheikh might be a diver's mecca, but there's plenty to do and see above water too.

Thrill-seekers can enjoy a 4-wheel drive tour though Lawrence of Arabia scenery to visit St Catherine's, a stunning 6th-century cliff-top monastery, where it is believed God dictated his Ten Commandments to Moses.

Enjoy a day trip into the Sinai desert © Creative Commons / Argenberg

Closer to home, the streets behind Na'ama Bay are a labyrinth of bazaars selling perfumed spices, chic clothes and cheap tat, which morph at sunset into open-air cafés where you can sit on cosy cushions puffing a shisha pipe, or drinking reasonably priced beer, wine or cocktails.

Stroll to the waterfront and you'll find dozens of smart restaurants serving everything from Russian to Thai cuisine. For a cheaper dining option, head inland to Abou El Sid, an inexpensive eatery above the Hard Rock Café where you can sample creamy spinach and chicken molokheya soup, lentils, rice and chickpeas koushari and other sumptuous Egyptian specialties.

If you're still looking for some action, make a beeline for King of Bahrain Street. Along this busy artery lined with trendy pubs and clubs, Pacha, where David Guetta, Sarah Main and other international celebrity DJs regularly come to spin their cutting-edge sounds, is definitely the pick-of-the-crop for late-night revellers.

For me, however, the best attractions lay under the sea. With natural wonders like the coral wall at Shark Reef and a graveyard of stricken wrecks like the Thistlegorm still waiting to be discovered, I know I'll be back for another diving holiday in the Red Sea next year.

Insider tip: There's plenty to freak out novice divers in the marine-rich waters off Sharm-El-Sheikh, but as as long as you don't touch anything, the danger is minimal.

Camel Dive Club, Sharm el-Sheikh
Website: www.cameldive.com
A half-day try-out diving session costs around €35 (£31).
A four-day Padi Open Water dive course costs €320 (£282).
A week's stay in a double/twin room at the Camel Hotel, plus three days guided diving, starts from €264 (£233) per person.

Sharm Excursions
Website: www.sharmexcursions.com
Price of a day-long tour to St Catherine's monastery and Dahab from £28.

Author: Heidi Fuller-love

Friday, March 5, 2010

Snowboarding in Whistler


Canada falls under the spotlight next month when it hosts the 2010 Winter Olympics. After learning to snowboard in the country a decade ago, Susie Henderson returns to Whistler Blackcomb to find out if she's still got the right moves.

A shaky start

I cautiously edged my snowboard a few more feet down the slope, scraping twigs and rocks exposed by the spring thaw. 'In the Spirit' was a steep gladed trail (where the trees had been thinned out a little) and had seemed the perfect challenge on the last day of my holiday in Whistler. After all, wasn't I supposed to be moving off the dreaded intermediate plateau?

The board's nose snagged yet another tree trunk, catapulting me head first. I looked left and right, wondering what had happened to the route. One skier had sashayed past me several minutes before, but this no longer looked like the official run. A stream was gushing to my left beneath the snow and I suspected I needed to be on the other side. How was I going to get out of this?

Returning to Whistler

Snowboarding in Whistler © Susie Henderson

Ten years previously I had spent a winter season in Whistler and learned to snowboard. My boyfriend (now husband) persuaded me to buy a cut-price sparkly tangerine board and I signed up for a lesson. That evening, I wondered if I would ever be able to move my stomach muscles again.

Several more lessons and 50 odd days of riding later however, I had reached a reasonable level of snowboarding and could confidently cover a good portion of the mountains. But then I found a 'proper' job in the UK and had to be thankful for a week's snowboarding each year. My progression halted.

Would a return to Whistler give me the push I needed to ride outside my comfort zone? Would I ever join the young guns in the terrain park or my husband (no young gun, though he'd like to think so) on the double black runs?

Challenging slopes

Challenging slopes in Whistler © Susie Henderson

Whistler Blackcomb will certainly give even the most experienced skier or boarder a run for their money. The resort boasts two mountains, over 200 runs, five terrain parks, a whopping 3,307 hectares (8,171 acres) of terrain and 38 lifts. The newest, the Peak 2 Peak gondola, opened in December 2008 and straddles the valley between Whistler and Blackcomb, dangling at a terrifying (and record-breaking) 436m (1,427ft) above the ground at one point.

With an average annual snowfall of 10m (33ft), the resort is a good bet for powder. At the start of the 2009/10 season, Whistler received a record 560cm (220 inches) of white stuff in November alone, making for an epic snow base.

Refresher lessons

I decided a refresher lesson was the best course of action and joined a one-day summit ride session. Other options include private lessons, supergroup lessons (three students maximum) or two-day women-only Roxy All Star snowboard camps.

Whistler Blackcomb prides itself on its international staff and you're as likely to hear a 'G'day mate', as a 'Hey dude'. My snowboard instructor, Sig, hailed from the New Zealand resort of Turoa and was about to complete his second season in Whistler.

My classmates were made up of a retired Canadian who split his time between Vancouver and Whistler, three 30-somethings living in Dubai, but originally from South Africa and Scotland, a Cambridge chemistry lecturer and an electrical engineer from Derby. I'd picked up a few bad habits over the years and it was good to revise basic technique. 'Make the shape of a house with your legs,' Sig urged. 'No A-frames!' To encourage us to relax our limbs, he suggested we 'ride like Thunderbird puppets'.

Building confidence

Once we'd ironed out some niggles and begun to snowboard with a little more fluidity, he taught us to ride fakie (where you lead with the opposite foot from normal). I had previously tried this a few times on my own, but had never committed. Sig yelling instructions at me ('hump and dump' are the body positions to remember) gave me the impetus I needed to complete a few turns instead of giving up.

In the afternoon we tried out some hits (small jumps) at the side of the runs. Let's just say Shaun White isn't quaking in his boots after my performance.

Over the next few days, I practised and improved my technique, but despite my husband's best efforts, steered clear of steeps and terrain parks (even the Terrain Garden, which a three-year-old could cope with).

Back to the piste

Which takes me back to my final day on that black tree run. Alone. On the wrong side of the stream.

I made the error of taking off my board. Within seconds I was up to my thighs in snow and my right foot was jammed. 'Help!' I cried feebly. The adrenaline was pumping and I hacked the snow around my foot with the snowboard and strapped back in. I took a deep breath, bombed across the snow, directly over the stream and eventually found my way back to the piste.

Was this what escaping the intermediate plateau was all about?

The trouble with being a 30-something mum instead of a young gun is that I'm secretly quite happy playing it safe. Why would I want to subject myself to the terror of a cliff-like couloir when there's a perfectly good blue run to cruise?

Whistler's incredible mountains and top-notch teaching staff give you the chance to work on and improve your skills. If you want to take it to the next level, there's every opportunity to do so.

But if the intermediate plateau's your territory, join me on 'Cruiser'. I'll leave the 'Couloir Extreme' run to the experts.

* Read more about the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics.

Further information

Getting there: Air Canada and British Airways run direct flights from London Heathrow to Vancouver. Pacific Coach operates a coach from Vancouver Airport to Whistler.

Book a lesson: A one-day summit ride session with Whistler Blackcomb costs C$99 (£60).

Where to stay: The Delta Whistler Village Suites has both rooms and one- and two-bedroom suites.

Tourist information: Tourism Whistler or Tourism BC.

Author: Susie Henderson

India: Off the beaten track


With just 10 months to go before India hosts the 2010 Commonwealth Games, Emma Field escapes the country's well-trodden tourist hotspots to discover more about the nation’s favourite brew: tea.

Verdant Assam is to tea what Venice is to canals, Paris is to fashion and Colombia to cocaine. Assam is one of only two areas in the world with its own native tea bush and is the world's second-largest producer of tea. I chose to immerse myself in Assamese tea lore in Dibrugarh, which boasts the coveted title of Tea Capital of Assam as well as a new airport. It's a world away from India's popular tourist trails so don't expect to see many other foreigners during your stay. You can expect, however, to thoroughly impress your friends with your adventurous spirit and new-found knowledge.

Tea plantation © Craig Fast

Tea plantations

The British established the first Indian tea plantations in Assam over 150 years ago. It is an indescribably pleasant experience to wander through the tea plantations as the trees casts dappled shadows across the bushes, learning about the tea-making process as it's going on around you.

The tea pluckers, wearing broad, pointed straw hats, work two shifts a day, each plucking around 20kg of tea leaves which they carry in a bundle on their heads to the weighing machine. They pluck the tea bushes on a weekly rotation - if the young leaves are left any longer, the taste of the tea is affected.

From the tea plantation, the lesson in tea production proceeds to the factory where a roll call of machinery that wouldn't be out of place in Bertha rolls, sorts and grades the tea before it is sent off to auction. Well-known brands such as Lipton and Tetley then buy the stuff from different growers to blend the tea you and I know and love.

The tea plantation 'plucking table' © Craig Fast

How to taste tea

Naturally, the only way to follow a tour of a tea plantation and factory is with a tea tasting. The manager of the tea estate personally conducts tea tasting sessions every day - he tests each batch produced in the factory, which means tasting tea up to four times a day.

He does it by adding 100ml of boiling water to three grams of tea. After covering and letting it brew for five minutes, he separate the leaves and pours the liquid into a large cup to cool. Observing the infusion (the brewed tea leaves) is critical: the brighter the leaves, the better the tea.

After adding two teaspoons of milk, he inspects the liquor (the tea itself) to ensure the colour is bright and golden. Finally, he tastes the tea by slurping it to allow the flavour to spread across his tongue. A good cup of tea is brisk, refreshing and smooth rather than flat.

Following his example, I tasted tea of different ages, comparing the various cups. The younger tea clearly tasted fresher and was livelier and brighter.

Chowkindinghee Chang Bungalow © Craig Fast

Where to stay

I stayed in Chowkidinghee Chang Bungalow, which, like all chang bungalows in Assam, was built raised on stilts to allow the colonial gent to mount his elephant with ease - no tiresome ladder or ungainly scrambling required. The height also made it harder for man-eating beasts to creep up on the bungalows' two-footed occupants.

Nowadays there's not much need for either protection from tigers or elephant riding, although Michael Palin did visit Chowkindinghee's sister bungalow, Mancotta, to see the plantations from the grand height of an elephant's back as he toured the area for his Himalaya TV series. The bungalow has been restored and inside, it eerily resembles a rustic English cottage with sofas, polished wooden floors and a fireplace, though with temperatures during my visit hitting 38ºC, I failed to see the appeal of a roaring log fire.

The view from the bungalow's delightful veranda tells a very different story. Instead of quaint English countryside, the bungalow is surrounded by a well-kept hedge that, by night, exotically flickers with fireflies and, beyond that, tea plantations.

Insider tip to Assam: The ultimate cup of tea is made from leaves plucked in May, June and July, at the height of the growing season.

* Indus Tours and Purvi Discovery offer a nine day, full board package from £82pp per night (based on two sharing), including a tea plantation tour and other activities.

Author: Emma Field